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A Mould Avoidance Sabbatical

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How to Conduct a Mould Avoidance Sabbatical: Using the Locations Effect to Heal 

This article will provide guiding principles to choosing a location and type of lodging for a Mould Avoidance/Locations Effect sabbatical. I will also share some of the tips and tricks I have found over the years. Those two sabbaticals are not always the same thing, but here I am talking about them as if you are doing both at the same time. This article will still be helpful if you're looking to do a locations effect sabbatical with only moderate mould avoidance.

Over the past 10 years, I have watched people with CFS, Fibromyalgia, Lyme disease and MCS conduct mould avoidance experiments. It seems to be very rare for people affected by these diseases to not be affected by mold and other environmental factors, like off-gassing and the quality of the outdoor air.

Clean, clear, calm turquoise waters are usually healing

To conduct this sabbatical will need to find temporary safe accommodation in the cleanest environment you can access. Erik Johnson, who discovered the connection between mold, the locations effect and CFS, talks about a "Mobile Environmental Control Unit" which is a "safe house" trailer or RV to use as a baseline. I have written a post on mobile safe home and safe trailers, a customized trailercargo trailers and vans. A tent is a good baseline for many. It is not easy to find a trailer that meets the needs of those very sensitive to mould as well as chemicals. I help clients choose between trailers, tent camping, or more conventional options - anywhere from glamping to rental houses.

A Beginner's Guide to Mold Avoidance: Techniques Used by Hundreds of Chronic Multisystem Illness Sufferers to Improve Their Health is the book you want to start with when conducting a mould avoidance sabbatical. I help people through my Consulting go through the process of preparing and undertaking a sabbatical. I can help you decide what to bring what not to bring, where to go and what types of accommodations to try, depending on the severity of your conditions and what's feasible for you.

This post contains affiliate links to relevant books and products that I use and recommend.

Avoidance Test Run 

Almost everyone I know with CFS/Fibro or Lyme has felt better in a "good location." Some people will say they felt 80% better in Cayman islands or had many symptoms go away while camping in a national park or while vacationing in the Rockies or Aruba. There are many more stories on the Locations Effect Facebook group from people who have felt much better from CFS and related illnesses using this method. 


From watching this over the years, I can say that pristine outdoor air is where you get the big boost, but you still have to be as particular about the indoor air. In a good location, sometimes in a fantastic location, you may have a higher tolerance for regular housing. But not everyone is so lucky. For those who are already hypersensitive or are coming from a house that is less mouldy than most, a lot of caution has to be taken before assuming that. Something I feel that has been lacking in support groups is experience in how to choose safe housing for this experiment. Buildings the world over are moldy. The majority of trailers are moldy as well. So to step out and try this experiment is not so simple if you are not starting out with a tent. If you have MCS and or EMF sensitivity this is even more difficult.

 A few common mistakes are:

- Going to a good location but choosing a regular hotel or rental online that has not been vetted or even carefully analysed. It should never be assumed that simply choosing something that looks clean online is not mouldy. Most buildings in almost every climate are mouldy.

- Many people who are sick with these types of illnesses have travelled, whether it's domestically or internationally, and have often felt better in a new location. That is a huge clue. However, it's also very possible that you have travelled and not felt better anywhere else either because you were going to similar locations, bad locations, bringing your stuff, or you were choosing regular housing that was mouldy or toxic. If you don't think the locations effect applies to you because you have travelled before, that is not enough info to go by if you have chosen regular hotels and rentals in the past.

- It's a mistake to think that because a climate is drier or because you're going to a beach location it will be better. Islands are also assumed to be better but are not always so. Florida has some of the most toxic beaches. Drier climates have moldy buildings just like everywhere else. Of course lower summer humidity and less rainfall may mean there are more buildings that are a better choice. But a drier climate does not guarantee safer housing or better outdoor air. The Canary Islands are an example of a place I've been to that are drier than many places, but the buildings are mouldier than usual because of the lack of heating and cooling. There are many great locations where people have healed that are certainly not dry. The Canary Islands are also an example of islands that are not as great as you would expect. Hawaii is another example of islands that are not spectacular. Also note, poorer countries often have poorer building practices.

Find a Good Location

Using the Locations EffectMold Avoiders, and Mold Avoiders on the Road groups on Facebook, and suggestions from others who have recovered, find a good area. The key aspect here is the outdoor air quality. People have felt remarkably better in places that are exceptionally pristine - these might be in the mountains, tropical coastal areas, or the desert. Those are the most popular choices, though forests and grasslands and all types of ecological areas can be good. 



Mercey Hot Springs is one of the original location effects hotspots
Still reported good for camping. Those severely ill can fly in.
Photo credit merceyhotsprings.com

None of these locations can be expected to stay good if they have been recommended years ago. Housing recommendations are even trickier. For my updated list of housing in good locations, see my list here, I keep track every time somebody shares a specific place where they recovered. Check with people in the Facebook group Mold Avoiders or the Locations Effect to see if the area is still good. I often do consultations on this topic because locations and especially buildings change over time. I am able to vet places near me and I can use my network to vet housing in other locations. Otherwise, I can analyse them through photos to some degree. 

There are factors here that are individual, not everybody does well with altitude, not everybody does well in a tropical setting if it's hot. I would definitely take into consideration your individual factors, but I would not assume that you are looking for just a drier climate or just a beach location. However, there is still enough of a consensus on locations where people have healed as long as you take into consideration those personal aspects such as altitude and heat, etc..  


The Canadian Rockies (pictured), Lake Alpine, Sonora CA,
and Tibet have been reported as good mountainous locations
Many are able to do a lot of healing in clean, clear turquoise waters. When looking for healing water, look for clean water and clean sand meaning not a lot of seaweed or debris. Look for bright turquoise and calm waters where you will be able to sit and float in the water. You can look through Google photos (not promotional shots) and satellite images. Avoid areas with sargassum, too much seaweed, red tide and cyano (like Florida). There can be other toxins in the water if sewage or other toxic runoffs are dumped there.

Ricky, who has made a 100% recovery on various islands, has developed this method of analysing water, the location of housing on the island and which islands are best. You can read his advice in the Locations Effect Facebook page or follow his journey to relocate to the Caribbean permanently here.


Aruba (pictured), Cayman, Turks and Caicos and Anguilla are reported good locations.
Not all of the Carribean is good and not every part of a good island is equal.
Look for good water, trade winds, good proximity to the beach.

When I'm looking at locations I'm looking for three things. 1. Places where people have totally or almost totally recovered just from the locations effect. 2. Places where the most extremely sensitive people have made great improvements. And 3. enough consensus on the location. A lot of mixed reports indicate that the location might not be the best for those super sensitive or to make the best chance at recovery.  One additional strategy you can use is to look at the progress of people who have similar illnesses to you, similar sensitivities, and a similar level of unmasking. This last piece can be really important especially if you have really specific sensitivities, for example, you need to avoid pesticides or high EMF areas that other mould avoiders may not be avoiding as scrupulously. Generally though, it's the mould avoiders who are healing who have the highest level of sensitivity to the environment, not just to mould, but to many different types of outdoor toxins.


I look at the reports over the last 10 years and I look at who is reporting - have they made a significant recovery, and are they unmasked already. For those just starting out and who are not unmasked and are coming from a really mouldy place, they may see a quick improvement by changing locations with only decent enough housing. This does not mean the location is excellent, and they often cannot hold on to these gains if the location and housing are not great.


Decide on Lodging 

A tent is less risky as you have way more control over the environment you are sleeping in (but it could be difficult to offgas). A tent can be hard for someone who is extremely sensitive to temperature. But there are lots of tips and tricks in my post on camping. I have made progress in a tent even when 90% bedbound. Other options include glamping, RVs, and hotels/rentals.

Finding lodging that is chemical/scent and mould-free is trickier, and everyone is different in their sensitivities, so even a good recommendation is tricky. Places also may have been contaminated or become mouldy since the recommendation was made.

Tenting

Here is my post on camping.  I go through options for tents for people with chemical sensitivities as well as how to keep your tent and gear as mould-free as possible. I also share some of my tips for people with challenges around comfort.

When looking at glamping setups I'm looking at them just as closely to inspect the age and condition of the materials. Canvas is a no-no unless it's brand new in a dry climate. I want to see raised off the ground. No used tents on flat surfaces. Yurts and domes need to be looked at carefully for offgassing and mould.

When glamping, look for well built simple structures, raised off the ground. These otentiks can be found across Canada. Ask about the age and materials.
 Photo credit tripadvisor 
Trailers

Airstreams can be rented from many different places but you want to go as new as possible there. Having a cargo trailer with no wood, offgassed Camplite or offgassed fibreglass trailer could provide a good baseline home. Here is my post on trailer options. And here is my post on converting a cargo trailer. I have a separate post on cargo vans. There are sites that rent converted vans like Outdoorsy. If you have never lived in a metal trailer before you have to take some caution here, as not everybody can tolerate metal.
A metal trailer with interior metal walls and low offgassing is one of the best bets for trailers
Photo credit livingvehicle.com

Indoor lodging

There are a few ways to go about finding good rentals or hotels. One way, if you're totally masked and this is all new to you, is you could just look for somewhere someone has recovered recently. If you do not have MCS you may be able to bank on something new if it is carefully chosen - analyse the likelihood of this type of building being mouldy in that country and climate.

If you are already very sensitive to chemicals and or mould, you have to be a lot more cautious with the recommendations. Usually as new as you can go is the best bet, but not always. Depending on where you are in the world it is possible for older buildings to be better built. There are many building types that are mouldy from the get-go. In some countries building practices are so poor that the building will be mouldy within a year.

I look at the type of construction and the quality that could be expected based on where it is and who it was built by. But not everybody is the same in what is best for them. A wooden simple hut or log cabin may be great for some, but some can't tolerate wood. For me personally, a very new concrete high-rise with climate control is usually the best option, but they're not perfect. Concrete is often wet for great lengths of time during the building process and does not dry properly. Concrete buildings are an even bigger problem in tropical countries where there is no climate control (no indoor humidity control) or if building standards are poor (example: slabs built wrong). The HVAC type has to be analysed for its propensity to go mouldy as well.

The type of building you choose will depend on where it is located. There is no one fits all recommendation here. There are places where I would prefer a little wooden hut or cabin. Sometimes glamping setups can work, but there's no guarantee that those are going to be made with materials that were not water damaged or have not gone mouldy with time.

A 3 y.o. concrete and steel highrise, built with an architect, high level, not top floor,
Baseboard heat and no AC in a climate that is not hot & humid, laundry vents to roof.
A+ for mould, B+ for offgassing. Photo from airbnb.ca 

I have at times done well with an Airbnb that has an outside sleeping space, but even then there was a learning curve because a mouldy building can be felt and even smelled from 100 feet away or more. And, outdoor concrete, tiles, and balconies are very prone to mould in tropical countries. So this is not always as easy as it seems. I would go brand-new and I would make sure you have a large enough space outside to backyard camp. Because of these requirements, this option can be expensive. There are certain areas of the world where I would not go with anything that has a slab or a basement due to poor construction practices or waterlogged soil. In fact, I very rarely choose ground level accommodation. Even for small huts or cabins, I want to see them raised off the ground.

Simple wooden cabins, made from climate appropriate, non-water damaged wood, with no insulation and raised off the ground have a good chance of being good.
Ask about the age and wood sealers.
Photo credit to boutique-homes.com

This is where I bring in my experience of travelling throughout different parts of the world in different climates and trying out hundreds of buildings while mostly sleeping outside and staying unmasked. I use the knowledge acquired from Building Biology and building science experts to analyse what's not working.

Some things you can ask about are cleaning products, air fresheners, last year of renovations, any water damage especially hurricane damage or leaks, pesticides, and anything else that you're specifically sensitive to.

My Tips and Tricks for Packing for a Sabbatical

-Caution with cotton in high humidity environments, like camping in a tropical setting, especially if hand washing clothing.

 -This compact microfiber towel dries quickly.

-I have these cute plastic shoes which I love. If you are camping you're going to want rubber or plastic shoes. They are good for beaches too. Easy to wash and decontaminate and they look decent. You can leave them outside without them going mouldy.

-Although it's not necessary, I do like charcoal soap and gloves to decontaminate the skin. You may end up showering more than usual, in which case you're going to need non-irritating soap and a better moisturizer than usual. I have found probiotics to be very useful on the skin when showering a lot to protect my microbiome.

-This dish soap works well as an all in one soap - dish, laundry soap, body soap and shampoo in a pinch. But when travelling light I bring this laundry soap in bar form. If you require scent-free soaps you will want to check that the country you're going to has that option. Another item you're unlikely to find in store in many parts of the world is a scent free and natural sunscreen. I like badger.

 -I use mylar bags to sequester items. Careful, if the aluminum starts to flake off or become dust form, discard these immediately.

-I use these aluminum tarps to sequester a bed. I may be sequestering off-gassing, mould or bacteria. I also use them if my sweat is contaminating the bed. Throw out often. If the aluminum flakes off or becomes dust form discard immediately.

-I use little glass jars with glass lids to isolate and store items like medication because it is very easy to decontaminate them.

 -I bought this affordable tablet for my last trip on a Black Friday sale. For a shorter trip, this can replace both your laptop and your phone. Use Skype to make phone calls and if you need to do a lot of work buy a portable keyboard as well. You will need one that comes with a SIM card slot if you are out of Wi-Fi and can't tether a phone.

-I used to bring a heating blanket everywhere I go so I can sleep with the window open, on a balcony or in a tent. You will almost certainly have to wash or air those out before using. If you can tolerate a heating blanket, you're going to be able to have access to way more fresh air and colder temperatures.

My Tips for Decon During a Sabbatical 

-I find that it's much easier, in the beginning, to have separate clothes for indoors and outdoors until you are able to really assess when something is contaminated, if it can be washed, or if it needs to be thrown away.

 -If you can, wash the bedding when you arrive or bring your own and request no bedding. Examine the washing machine in the building that you are staying in to see how mouldy it is. (They are usually mouldy, but Airbnb's run by professional management companies often ship out their laundry, if you find a new building like this you may find a washer and dryer that have barely or never been used).

-Wash clothes by hand with non-toxic, scent-free soap. Note, Borax is no longer considered safe to use in the laundry for decon but many people do still use this and I think the risk is low. For those who are not very chemically sensitive, quaternary ammonia, like Unscented Downy, can be very useful for removing mycotoxins from clothes. Some people start to detox a lot through their sweat and that may be cleaned by boiling or other methods. Some use ozone on their clothes or EM1 to soak them.

A Few Final Notes:
  • I see improvement in symptoms after one day of being in a good location. Certainly one week is minimum for your test run,  but I would aim for 3 weeks.
  • After a few weeks, you will have a heightened sense of smell and will be able to detect contaminated objects much more easily. Note that some moulds do not have a scent,  judge places and items more on your symptoms then how they smell.
  • EMFs in a location are an important factor as well as pollution, chemicals and mould. Factors that seem to be very important are mystery toxin, cyanobacteria,  toxins around military bases,  some brand new buildings that have high offgassing, and regular air pollution. In some locations that are particularly bad, we don't always know what the toxin in the air or water is.
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Composting Toilets & Greywater Recycling for the Chemically Sensitive

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Updated fall 2018

I want to talk about composting toilets and greywater systems from the standpoint of the chemicals (and smells) involved, the feasibility for a disabled person, the costs, and the benefits for someone with MCS to being semi (or totally) off the grid.

Self-Contained Composting Toilets for the Chemically Sensitive

I have the SunMar Spacesaver in my tiny house because it's the smallest indoor self-contained composting toilet I could find in Canada, and the only one that will fit in my tiny bathroom. It was also the best-priced unit. I absolutely do not recommend this toilet as it completely fails at handling liquids. Here are a few of the other challenges followed by some recommended brands.

This post contains affiliate links on some of the products I use and recommend. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Toxic Additives in Composting Toilets?

my bathroom
I had a bad chemical reaction to the additives. I didn't know that the toilet requires a significant amount of input in terms of additives (and money). There are three things you need to add regularly: 1) an enzyme spray which smelled fine to me, like a very light non-toxic soap might smell, 2) a bulking material of hemp, peat moss.... and maybe sawdust? This material will certainly be problematic for those extremely sensitive to mould. I can't detect any, but I don't see how it could be consistently mould-free. (You could definitely make/source your own bulking material. All the indoor self-contained composting toilets that I know of require some.) And 3) the microbes that you add to speed up the compost and keep it "odourless".

I had such an acute reaction to the microbe mix. It smells somewhat like a urinal cake. Everything online said it was non-toxic and natural... hmm. I called them to ask what is in it and they said citronella.

Citronella contains methyl eugenol which repels bugs and is a possible health concern needing more studies to confirm its safety. There are a few essential oils I consider to be harmful for MCSers and citronella is definitely one of them. I had to figure out what kinds of microbes were needed for the toilet and I found out that EMBokashi will work just as well and doesn't have fragrance added.

After using the toilet for a few months, I can say that the enzyme spray is not necessary. You could just use the Bokashi or Bokashi and a bulking material. However, I am not happy with this model at all. The upkeep is very smelly work and it often overflows with only one person using it. Dealing with the overflow is horrible. Even before it overflows the system is such that liquid accumulates below the tray where it becomes very smelly, and mouldy. One person using this toilet full time requires that it overflows into a septic system or blackwater system. Not very self-contained at all.


Offgassing the Unit

Another chemical issue is with the unit itself. It needed some offgassing outside to get rid of the plastic and glue smells. I left it outside for a week. A month would have been ideal.

Necessary Hook-Ups

There is some installation necessary that ideally would be contemplated before building the bathroom of a new house! A vent has to go through the wall, outside, and above the roof line. An emergency overflow valve needs to go through the floor and out to.... somewhere (a bucket)... or to the septic or sewage drain if you are on the grid. You do not need to have water as an input for this type of unit or bolt it down in any way. There are electric and non-electric self-contained units. The Spacesaver is electric. There is a need for a special outdoor compost for self-contained indoor composting toilets; they say the humus the toilets produce is totally benign but there is no way it is in there long enough to be benign.

Benefits to Having a Composting Toilet

There is a huge benefit to being off the septic system and that is the freedom to put your tiny house/yurt/dome on any piece of land with some extra amps to spare & a fresh water hose (and of course you could get totally off the grid with solar panels and rainwater collection).

Challenges

If you are comparing the initial cost and cost of (ongoing) inputs to just hooking up to a city sewage line, then the self-contained composting toilets are going to seem expensive. If you are comparing the cost to installing a rural septic tank and the maintenance of that septic tank, then it starts to seem like a really good deal.

If you are extremely sensitive you're going to want to make sure you can source some tolerable bulking material before you start. A lot of the maintenance also includes some strong smells of excrement so you have to be able to tolerate that. I have seen some mould growing in the finishing drawer.

Another challenge for people who are disabled is that there is some work - there is the buying of the additives and maintenance. Maintenance involves turning a crank every second day for a minute. Unclogging the mesh screen if that ever clogs up, checking to see if the system has overloaded via the emergency drain and other troubleshooting if anything goes wrong. There is a fair amount of troubleshooting so far for me. The fan will have to be replaced or fixed if and when it stops working. You also empty out the bottom drawer of benign humus every few weeks.

I'm having trouble with the Spacesaver as I don't think it has enough capacity for one person let alone two. The tray is filling up too fast, which can be a major problem if you don't have somewhere safe to dump it and it overflows liquids.

If you are building a new house (that's not on a trailer bed) on a site without sewage or septic already in place, you are probably going to be subjected to building codes that require more conventional systems.

Recommended Composting Toilets

Those who live in tiny houses recommend two types - either Nature's Head Dry Composting Toilet or the Separett.

What's different about these is they separate the urine out. This is crucial. It is the reason the Sunmar is overflowing and going mouldy in the tray. I would go with one of these for sure when I replace the Sunmar.

The other type that is popular now and is even more suitable for the chemically sensitive is the dry flush self-contained. A dry flush self contained uses bags. I have never seen this in action. The bags are somewhat expensive and you have to carry them out to a trash bin. Some people are really happy with this and it eliminates a lot of problems with smells and mould with the other ones.

Other Types of Composting Toilets

This post deals with indoor self-contained units but other types of composting toilets include: an outdoor bucket system, an outdoor dug out (outhouse), indoor central flush, central dry, and indoor bucket systems. Incinerating toilets like the Cinderella are making a bit of a comeback though I don't have many clients that have chosen this option because of the smell of the burning.

If you live in a simple trailer or van or are camping you may want an even simpler toilet that uses bags. The Cleanwaste one is popular. And I have tried this one with success.

Greywater Recycling

Being off the septic system means you also need to safely recycle your greywater - which is the water that comes out of the kitchen sink, bathroom sink and shower. These contain more bacteria than you think via raw meat and the bacteria on your body etc.

Eco-Sense has a really good free overview and guide including using a worm bin system to remove food scraps from the water. Here are the instructions for the worm bin filter system. There are a lot of different types of systems and for more detailed instruction this book is super user-friendly and outlines the simplest options depending on the number of people you have on the system.

You need both some kind of filter and water dispersion. We tried just burying the pipe so that the water would simply drain into the ground but the water could not absorb fast enough and it backed up through the house. Gross, yes. We dug a small pit and it still backed up. Right now I have a larger pit but it still has no filter on it, it worked fine for years with little upkeep. (Note it's not technically safe to have the water drain above ground, but this did work fine).

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Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 5 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

For individual help on choosing the best products and materials for you and your home you can schedule a consultation with me here.


Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!
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Glues and Caulks - Chemical-Free Versions

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Updated in winter 2019

Testing glues and silicones was the hardest part of building my tiny house since I did this when I was highly sensitive.

This post contains affiliate links on products I recommend. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Wood Glues

It's difficult to extrapolate a small jar of dry glue to a house filled with it. (In retrospect I would have tested a much larger dry sample.) I smelled them wet because I got a clearer sign of their relative effects on me. Since I have not figured out a better way to test materials, that's all I'm working with.

So here are the contenders:

Gorilla Glue - Got pretty dizzy, not good, but not terrible. Seems OK when dry. (Easy to find at hardware stores.)

Elmer's Wood Glue - Not good for me. Didn't test dry. (Carried at hardware stores.)

The best of the wood glues
Roo Glue - White and wood glue - Not great when wet, but not terrible. Seemed totally fine when dry. This is my top pick and what I ended up using. (Very fast delivery from online store to Canada.)

Titebond - This is a brand that is recommended for MCSers. I had already picked Roo Glue before I got a chance to test it. I do know people that build for the chemically sensitive who use this brand. (Online or at specialty building stores like Greenworks, Vancouver.)

ECOS Wood glue - ECOS makes extremely tolerable products, and while I didn't get a chance to test this one. I would expect it to be quite good.

Hide Glue is the most natural glue option for wood. It is a strong glue with no VOCs but it is not waterproof. You can mix it yourself from beads or flakes for the most natural option, or you can buy it ready made which does contain additives.

Caulks

While silicone itself is not toxic, chemicals are added to keep caulking in liquid form. For silicone caulk, look for 100% silicone, but each brand has different additives which affect people differently and offgass at different rate.

The replacement silicones are much more tolerable, like EcoBond which does claim zero-VOC. They all smell when wet, and I tested them at 24 hours, 48 hours and one week. I would recommend getting a non-sensitive person to put them in jars and only testing them after they have dried. Note that caulks labeled bathroom or mildew resistant contain a mildewcide (except all of the EcoBond caulks including bathroom caulk). Currently GE I is mildewcide free, GE II contains a mildewcide and DAP makes an aquarium caulk that is free of mildewcides. Any caulk labeled aquarium safe is free of mildewcides.

The worst of the Silicones
AFM Safecoat Caulk - Not the best when wet, not the best at 24 hours, but the best at one week. I used this in my bathroom. It comes in white and is generally a replacement for silicone.

Eco-Bond - This is my top pick. These are all zero-VOC. I tested this much later than the others, but I can say that this is another really great caulk. At least as safe as AFM with better bonding. It comes in white and clear. It is the only zero-VOC clear caulk that I know of. They are not silicone. One person who is extremely sensitive to caulking thought Ecobond took two weeks to off-gas compared with six weeks for GE. Others might GE better than Ecobond. Everyone's experience will be a little different. (As of early 2019 this company is MIA, might be going out of business and might be back). Ecobond makes an elastomeric caulk.

GE Silicone II Clear Caulk - This may a better choice for the exterior. It was not as good at one week as AFM or Ecobond. We used this on the underbelly of my house and on my windows. It is low-VOC. I find that after a couple weeks it is fine for me.

Aquarium Caulk - I have read that aquarium caulk is the least toxic because fish are exposed to it and they can't handle chemicals. I tested two brands, Aquarium Silicone Caulker and one called Marina from a local pet food store, they were much more expensive than brands for home use (for no reason), and they were both the worst of the worst. So bad I would not recommend testing or using these brands. One super sensitive person preferred the Aquarium caulk Aqueon to GE and Ecobond.

Adhesives

The best adhesive I have ever tested isAFM Safecoat Almighty Adhesive. I had absolutely no problem and no reaction to smelling it while it was wet. This was a pleasant surprise after all the other glues and silicones. Insider tip, this is the same formula as Build Secure by Chemlink. I used this to install my shower. (A whole post is devoted to the custom chemical-free shower).

Liquid Nails subfloor adhesive is also well tolerated by many.

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Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 5 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

For individual help on choosing the best products and materials for you and your home you can schedule a consultation with me here.


Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

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Cleaning Products & Air Fresheners for the Chemically Sensitive

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These are the cleaning products I have tested and use. After many years of trying different products and DIY recipes these are the products I have settled on.  I have also looked at what the most chemically sensitive folks tolerate and use.

Some of these products I use have affiliate programs. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission through affiliate links at no extra cost to you.

All Purpose Cleaner

You can clean many surfaces with simple and cheap products - Vinegar, or baking soda. Seventh Generation also makes a really good All-Purpose Cleaner. I use their dish soap for most things including wood floors. 

Scouring the Bathtub 

You can use this Tub & Tile Cleaner (it has a fir scent). I use Magic Erasers, which after a tonne of research I felt confident about using. I do this these are safe to use.

The Toilet


To clean the toilet try pouring vinegar or half a cup of lemon juice in the toilet bowl and letting it sit for 30 minutes. You have to clean really often for this to work.

For tougher stains my favourite product is Bon Ami Powder (unscented), or Seventh Generation toilet cleaner which has a fir scent.





Glass & Windows

A 50/50 vinegar and water solution works great. Wipe with newspaper.

Or, even simpler, water and a microfibre cloth! You can get these online.


Polishing Stainless Steel

While lemon can remove hard-water marks, and baking soda with a scrubbing sponge can remove grime, a microfiber cloth will make it look shiny and new!

For the kitchen sink, use olive oil on a soft cloth to buff.

Baked on oil and food stains on a stainless steel kettle or cookie sheet can be removed with a paste of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide. Let it sit for a while, it will work wonders.

The most liked natural metal cleaner is the one from ECOs. Most of the natural ones don't work but people report back that this one does.

For Marble, Granite and Stone

Seventh Generation Granite and Stone.


Polishing Furniture


For wood furniture that has a bit of a sheen use two parts olive oil and one part lemon juice (spray on and wipe off). For a matte dark wood, like my rocking chair, I tried concentrated black tea (cooled to room temperature). It looked great but left the wood feeling slightly tacky.

Walnuts also worked surprisingly well to remove scratches! (Works on wood floors too). A hair dryer can help to remove rings left by water. Follow with a polish.


Removing Stains & Mould


For stained laminate, clean with a mixture of baking soda and Hydrogen Peroxide. The same thing works really well on stained tile grout, i.e. around the toilet, or to remove mould from grout.

I use the Magic Erasers which are non-toxic as long as you don't digest it. For that reason I don't use them on counter tops.








Dish Soap & Hand Soap

Be sure to use a non-toxic biodegradable brand like Seventh Generation and test for your own sensitivities.

For cleaning large areas of painted walls I would dilute that dish soap. It also works well on wood floors.


Air Fresheners

I'm not a big fan of essential oils for the chemically sensitive. But if you do tolerate them you could use a room spray or diffuser.

If you want to use essential oils and a diffuser (use a water-free one), the most tolerable options are often vanilla, citrus also tends to be on the more tolerable side as well as peppermint.

I've been trying various natural air fresheners: The popular Pinterest post of vanilla, rosemary and lemon (simmered) was OK, not as great as I hoped (grate the lemon rind before adding it to get the lemon scent out). I tried simmering black tea with spices (cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg) as well, which worked, slighly.

If you cannot tolerate those but need to have your house smelling good for an event or home showing you can brew coffee or bake cookies in the oven at that time. For some people, burning sage or sweetgrass maybe pleasant and tolerable.

You may also consider removing odours instead of adding scents. Check out my post on mitigating VOCs to see some strategies to properly remove pet odours and other problematic odours.

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Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 5 years of experience helping others create healthy homes. I have lived with environmental sensitivities for most of my life.

For individual help on choosing the best products and materials for you and your home you can schedule a consultation with me here.


Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

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Trailers and Tiny Homes on Wheels for the Chemically Sensitive

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Updated Spring 2019


If you fancy a tiny home that is semi-mobile (can be moved around, but ideally not too much), I would go for a small wood or metal structure. I no longer recommend Tiny Green Cabins, Swanson or Tiny Healthy Homes because of the issues I have seen with their production and construction.

Leaf House via tinyhousing.ca
There are no specific tiny home companies I can recommend at this time. However, if you would like to set up a consultation we can go over finding a good builder and how to supervise.

I don't know of one for less than 60K. Budget at least 65K. Look into the experience of the builder, talk to past clients and look at what kind of warranty they offer. See my post on building a mould-free tiny home before proceeding.

Trailers

Cargo Trailers

Joey, from HealClick, breaks it down to the essentials and delivers a safer trailer for $7000. Here is my post all about cargo trailers. There is a lot more that has to offgas in these simple trailers than you might think. They take about a year to off-gas.











Metal Travel Trailers

My Camplite
I had a Camplite by LivinLite travel trailer made to my specifications and you can find all the details about that here. Though the key thing I look for in a trailer is moisture proof walls and the laminated sandwich insulation. You may still find a used one with sandwich laminated walls, before they changed the wall system. The company is now out of business.

www.safaricondo.com



The Safari Condo is another option to consider. "Roof and walls are made of a sandwich-type material with a plastic honeycomb core laminated with Alufiber on one side and aluminum on the other. Alufiber combines the light weight of aluminum with the durability of fiberglass. The only materials used in building the Alto are those on which water has little effect, such as aluminum, alufiber, plastic, Formica and glass. Inside, the furniture consists largely of aluminum and composite materials. Rigid and ultra-light sandwich panels are integrated into the bed cushions, while the entire bed structure is made of aluminum extrusions." They need a fair amount of time to off gas.

Custom Metal Trailer

www.weeroll.com
You could have a small metal trailer custom made in the style of the Camplite or like a tiny home. I have also seen cargo trailer custom made with metal SIPS though that is rare to find. The Weroll is similar to a cargo trailer but is more customized and you may be able to reduce the off-gassing with this option as well as streamline the process of converting it.

Another type of non-toxic trailer is porcelain enamel on steel. This is an extremely tolerable material but it is not cheap. It's very rare to see a porcelain trailer for sale, many of them were made on poor quality RV shells which is a shame. But the interior of these trailers are very tolerable.


High-End Metal Trailers

Airstreams with metal walls can become tolerable fairly fast (for a trailer). I don't hear that they hold up to mould for a long time and I usually hear they are quite leak prone. If you do happen to find one in the sweet spot, offgassed but not yet mouldy, you may get a few years out of it. They do retain thier value well like fiberglass trailers.

www.livingvehicle.com
A newer company making very tolerable trailers is Living Vehicle. They use closed cell rigid foam insulation sealed with tape and the interior is almost entirely aluminum including the cabinets. The countertops are Corian Quartz. The flooring is vinyl by Armstrong. The cushions are polyurethane which may or may not need to be removed. The price is 150K. This is a rare find because of the almost fully alumium interior, no structural wood (no hidden wood in the new models for 2020, and no wood in cabinets, only in the table), 0 VOC countertops and flooring that should be tolerable to many people.




Fiberglass Travel Trailers

www.eggcamper.com
Egg campers are made of a fiberglass shells that are very mould resistant and durable. Many sensitive people say that fiberglass takes a year to offgas the VOC styrene but some find it offgasses in a few days.

Casitas use a carpet that is glued on to the walls and floor. At the time of writing, they would not customise one without that element.

Look for fiberglass campers with moulded fiberglass furniture like Oliver trailers. Oliver uses vinyl flooring but they can make you one without the vinyl or cushions which makes it one the best fiberglass option I have found. They also have a good R-value and can be winterised. This is the only fiberglass trailer I know of that does not have wood products in the floor which would make it my top choice.

Happier Camper is another company to check out as they don't use carpet or padding on the walls and the floors are fiberglass. The floors are composed of plastic honeycomb integrated with corrugated cardboard and resin.

Trillium is willing to build without plywood in floors but it was difficult to convince them to leave the padding off the wall.

Ideally, your fiberglass trailer has no padding or carpet on the walls, has fiberglass moulded furniture, no plywood in the subfloors and no vinyl or carpet flooring. I've looked at all the brands of fiberglass trailers currently in production in North America, so contact me if you would like to go into further detail in a consultation.

In terms of used trailers, moulded fiberglass trailers and aluminum trailers like Camplite are the best bets since the walls are less likely to become mouldy with time. Though fiberglass trailers do tend to have problems with the wood subfloor and if they have carpet on the walls that can go musty as well.

Custom Wooden Teardrop Trailers

Pat's trailer from my post on wooden teardrops
A small teardrop can be made of all wood like this trailer (pictured) that I showcased in this post. The trailer came to 10K in materials, the labour would be about an extra 10K. It has basic wiring, no plumbing and a basic outdoor kitchen.










Vans and Truck Campers 

http://mcscamper.blogspot.ca
The company Innovative Spaces can build out a cargo van. I don't have direct experience with them.
It is possible to buy a van of this type, strip it out and custom build the interior in the same fashion. Here is my post on the vans.











Conventional RVs

Some mould avoiders have been using conventional RVs and trading them in if they go mouldy. Two companies that some people like are:

Bigfoot - Made of fiberglass, EPS and luan, with vinyl flooring.

Forest River RV Sunseeker Class C. A "Greener" RV company. Sunseeker has 1 piece fiberglass roof, aluminum frame, block foam insulation, no fabric except valances and bedspread, "low VOCs". I really like the roof on this model.

Other Forest River brands are low VOC and slightly better construction than usual.

Coachman is also low VOC, mold avoiders have liked the Freedom Express and Apex Ultra Lite.

Don't expect a traditional rv to last very long in terms of mould. Be prepared to trade that in in one or two years. Many people cannot tolerate the offgassing though this has been improving in the last few years as more models try to go greener. Also keep in mind the depreciation. It's a god idea to see it in person before purchasing, unlike some of the custom trailers.

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There are no affiliate links or sponsored content in this post.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 5 years of experience helping others create healthy homes, including alternative homes, trailers and shelters. I have owned and lived in three trailers, my tiny house on wheels, a custom camplite and a converted cargo trailer.


Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!




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Emergency Housing for MCS / CIRS

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Emergency Housing for those with Chemical Sensitivities (MCS) and Mould Sensitivity

Updated in Spring 2019

Here is a list of some housing ideas for those with environmental sensitivities needing immediate or temporary safe housing.

For help setting up a small structure or tiny house or making a plan for an avoidance sabbatical you can schedule a one-on-one consult with me. 


This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.


KOA Cabins


koa.com
KOA cabins are located across the US and Canada. The cabins are made from mostly safe materials (mostly wood) and have been reported to be good places to stay for those who are environmentally sensitive. Ask if the wood has been stained recently. The bathrooms are separate and may or may not be mould-free, depending on the location. Recently I'm hearing reports of these having gone mouldy. If the foundation or roof is not done right there is a good chance these could go mouldy. Often newer is better for mould.






Home Made Tents


from: www.miketyka.com/projects/desert-dome/
Regular tents can be difficult because of the chemicals used on the fabrics, the lack of insulation and the tendency for them to go musty very easily and be a lot of work with the airing out and drying out. I have a preferred tent which is an off the ground tent in my post on camping gear.

Reflectix Tent 

Reflectix provides some R-value and reflects light so that should work in a lot of different climates, though the seams will reduce the insulative value and add more glue and more potential for leaks. There are simpler designs for the structure that will reduce seams.

You can't buy these - you would have to look online for the metal structure, then buy the Reflectix, foam, aluminum tape and duct tape and then have someone make it for you. The tape may make this intolerable for some. And this also lacks air flow. 

You would also make at least one triangle out of polyethylene or an EVA Shower Liner so that you have some light. But have a flap of Reflectix over it that you open and close over this "window".


Kim's tent via Paradigm Chage.org
Kim is a sensitive person who has made a tent out of Tyvek which she tolerated well when extremely reactive. This is a plastic used as housewrap.

There are so many options here on what you can build an emergency tent out of. It all depends on what you can tolerate. It may not last forever but it may give you some time to find another option or even bring down your MCS which will open up options. 

Other materials you could use: polyethylene, tarps, even hemp fabric if you are not expecting rain and don't have high humidity.




When Sara was an extreme reactor, she made a simple structure out of XPS foam boards. The two inch boards of XPS (usually Owens Corning brand can be found easily) have a high insulative value. She arranged them in a tent shape, the groves in the edges holding them together. Rocks at the base pressing them together. Of course you could use tape if you can tolerate that or put plastic over the whole thing.

This is my version on the left made of polyiso foam. This is a "foam tent" used inside a non insulated trailer that was cold and still offgassing. I hooked up a Panasonic ERV and ran fresh air into the tent at night via a 4 inch aluminum tube. The opposite end of the tent had a 4 inch hole for air to exit. This is a highly effective way to deal with offgassing - fresh air is pouring through, though it can be difficult to control the temperature and humidity this way. 





Inspired by the idea of a foam shelter, I have made two highly insulated shelters with ridged foam, raised off the ground and covered in a tarp. A wood structure may be needed to protect from wind and snow. 

I built the structure on the left. The frame was covered with a tarp and inside on the plywood platform was a box made out of foam. This shelter worked extremely well though there are things to keep an eye on in the long term. Here are some video tours. The materials cost me 1000 CAD. 

Such a robust frame is not always necessary. You can build the plywood platform, with foam box on top and simply string a tarp over this if you don't have strong winds or lots of snow. 




This is the same structure with a tarp over it and the XPS foam box secured with tape inside. The design can be improved by fixing the tarp, painting the foam structure and using clear tape. 

Please contact me for details if you want help setting something like this up.  


















Insulated/Aluminum Tents


billionbricks.org
These tents are insulated and the foil on the inside will also block most of the VOCs from the fabric on the outside. They say you can sleep in them down to 0 degrees Celsius. They are 600 USD. They look like they would have problems with air flow and condensation inside. As well as being straight on the ground, but they may work for some people. 








shift pod
There are other similar tents cropping up that were designed for Burning Man festival. The shift pod for 1300 USD is similar but with the reflective layer on the outside. This will help reflect the sun and keep cool in sunny weather when there is no shade. But I don't know how this will perform well with condensation inside. The best of the typical tents have an internal mesh layer, then a gap with a rainfly on top. If you don't use that system you usually end up with condensation. 

For a lot less you can get a simple aluminum lined small sleeping tent. It's not insulated but the aluminum on the inside is more tolerable than the usual tent materials and does reflect heat inside. 

Bubble Tent


source http://dornob.com
These cute domes are very photogenic.

They include a fan that circulates fresh air.
Though they would still be impractical for hot or cold weather. You could add shade when it's sunny unless you are somewhere very cold, then the sun might be an advantage. 

The bubbles available in North America are made of PVC which is toxic and needs a good amount of time to offgas. 




Regular Tents
My favourite tent - Ozark Cot Tent

There is no perfectly chemical-free tent, The most tolerable brands include Ozark, Big Agnes, REI, LL Bean, Colman, and Lightspeed. Everyone is different. Moonlight makes flame retardant-free tents coated with silicone on the outside and polyurethane on the inside.

Here is my post on safer camping gear which goes through all the major brands that folks do well with. In the post I also discuss canvas cotton and hemp for really dry climates (temporary use). 






Yurts & Huts
photo from yurts.com
Yurts are often tricky for a few reasons. They are normally made out of PVC which takes time to off gas. On top of that they are difficult to insulate, although one could just use them as an uninsulated tent. The wooden framing can be susceptible to mould if there is a lot of condensation inside or with high humidity inside, which can happen when heating up a small space. The wood also might be treated and could cause reactions. 

There are yurts that have metal framing which may be preferable for some people. You could create your own outer yurt cover by using a more tolerable material, although it will not be as long-lasting as PVC. If you want to create a short-term yurt, or rather a glorified tent, you could use material used to make a tent, or you could use polyethylene sheets that are used for greenhouses, or tarps. One really positive design feature of yurts is that they are lifted off the ground on a platform. 

Metal yurts may work for some. I have looked at those in the post on simple shelters


sweerwaterbungalows.com
These glamping tents by sweet water bungalows are PVC, with a canvas top (prone to mustiness), but the guide and framing could be used to create a tent with a plastic of your choosing. Just keep in mind polyethylene is not as durable, but is less toxic. 

I wouldn't use canvas for anything other than a short and dry camping trip but without the breathable roof these are prone to condensation.





Communitysupportedshelters.org
Conestoga huts have a simple design for a little hut/glorified tent. A simple design that goes up fast is a big benefit. I have not been able to review these plans for mould preventative building, but it's an interesting design. If you don't insulate this it shouldn't be a problem. If you do want to try these with insulation please reach out to me or an expert in building science. I am not presuming these are a mould safe design. 









Shed in Backyard

homedepot.ca
Steel sheds can be bought from hardware stores for 700-1000 dollars. You will also need to build a foundation, pay for labour to set it up, caulk the whole structure and likely put in some insulation. For everything you need to know about setting up a shed to live in see this post by EI Wellspring.

Sheds are not as easy to take down as you would expect.









cedarshed.com
There are also wooden and plastic sheds. I have seen some good little wooden shed kits made of solid wood. Raise them off the ground and cover with a tarp above that is not touching the shed. I like cedarshed.com for those who can tolerate cedar. Check out the wood first, see how it was stored and test it for reactions. 



Hard plastic sheds will work for many people. The more flexible the plastic the more it offgasses. PVC should be avoided where possible.




Glass Enclosures 
buildahealthyhouse.com
A greenhouse can be used for backup shelter, it gets very hot when the sun hits them in warmer seasons and can dip really low at night in colder temps. But some people have used them successfully. Margaret talks about her experience with them here (pictured left). 

Other glass/metal enclosures brands are Handi Hut and Four Season.







I designed an all glass on the interior shelter with insulation on the outside. This was designed for a time that I could not have metal or wood inside touching me. The walls and floor were glass. The ceiling would be easier to make out of metal. The shelter was raised off the ground on a platform. Outside of the glass was 2 inches of foam insulation. To hold this insulation on, the exterior framing (outside of the foam layer) was attached by drilling through the foam and glass. The foam needs to be airtight to the glass. A tarp should cover the shelter. This has not been tested yet.



Back of a Pick-Up Truck

Try and find an aluminum canopy for the back of the truck. The bed liner may need to be offgassed or can be covered with Reflectix. If ordering a brand new truck you can request no liner.









Cargo Trailer

Details on converting a cargo trailer safe in this post. The company WeRoll can customise these and they have more robust roof lines compared to the standard models. 















Creating a Safe-Room in Your House


Eiwellspring.org
To create a non-toxic room in your home you can use Denny foil, or heavy duty aluminum foil on the walls/ceiling/floor. These materials block VOCs (chemicals/toxins including mould). Heavy duty aluminum foil is much easier to work with than the type used in cooking. You may need several layers to totally block smells. 

You want to use green Painting Tape for this as it will not damage the walls and is easy to remove - a healthy person could rip off/take down the whole room is probably 20-30 min (small room). The blue tape is toxic so I wouldn't use that. You could use aluminum tape but it is very sticky and will leave a residue and will be hard to take off. Aluminum tape also smells and offgasses more than green tape. 

I would not do this where you have colder air inside than outside (AC use). 

I have used this successfully on areas that were offgassing (a new door). 

Cover outlets. As for light fixtures, I would go around them.

The only thing in the room should be clean bedding i.e. a new non-toxic mattress or camping cot (etc). New non-toxic bedding and pillow. Be careful with bringing in EMFs producing devices if you use foil. But be careful that when you open the window or the door that the air coming in might not be good, so this won't be a long-term solution. 


healthfacilityguidelines.com
If you can't foil the walls you can make a room within a room and use positive pressure as explained here in this post. You can use foam, plastic or any air tight material. Isolate that by using positive pressure which will work to reduce chemicals like offgassing. That can be a solution for someone extremely sensitive who has trouble with offgasssing. 

You can find more information by researching isolation rooms. 










Renting a Natural Home 


Staying in a cob house (or straw bale, adobe, light straw-clay house) can be a really good option


Ecovillages may rent out rooms in natural homes and there is a possibility of getting in on the communal meal plan as well. Search for some in your area and ask about monthly stays.

I have seen some natural homes listed on AirBnB as well as on lists of intentional communities/ecovillages. 

Always ask about propane, natural gas, cleaning products, and water damage. I have found that is wet/cold climates cob and similar materials do not hold up to mould after a few years. Slabs and roofs often have mistakes that lead to mould. Green roofs can be very problematic. Amateur built houses are especially prone to mistakes that lead to mould. This type of building is best when raised off the ground, or with a simple roof, otherwise don't bank on this being safe if more that 1-3 years old. 

Ecovillages are also a good place to set up a tent where you might have access to outdoor bathrooms and kitchens that are more MCS safe than campgrounds. It may also be a safer environment for those traveling solo. I have used the Intentional Communities website, Google for places near you, and the site wwoofing. If you have physical energy you can work on a wwoofing site in exchange for free rent (camping or small cabin usually) and often food. Another option for those who have energy to do work is remote cabins that are advertised on Craigslist where you do some house and yard work in exchange for rent. The cabins might not be safe, but this could be a free spot to camp or live in a trailer. 


Other Emergency Housing

We should have emergency and long-term safe housing for people with MCS. Check out the Environmental Health Association of Québec if you are a Quebecer. 

For housing listings in the US and Canada, join EI Safe Housing on Facebook. 

When I come across AirBnBs, hotels and short term rentals that look safe I list them here on my Pinterest page. While many turn to AirBnB or other short term rentals in the beginning this can be a difficult and sometimes impossible road if one is super sensitive and/or masked to mould. 


Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!


Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 5 years of experience helping others create healthy homes. You can schedule a consult for one on one assistance with setting up emergency shelters and tiny homes.

I have spent a couple years in tents, small structure in order to heal from extreme chemical sensitivity. 



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A Non-Toxic Bathroom

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Updated Spring 2019

I recommend all of the products here, some products have affiliate programs and some do not. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission though affiliate links at no extra cost to you.

If you need assistance choosing the best products for your sensitivities, please contact me for a one on one consultation. 


Non-Toxic Showers


Tiles
  • Ceramic tiles are good if they do not contain lead or radioactivity.
  • Porcelain - is an inert suitable material but sometimes needs to be resealed
  • All imported glazed tiles should be tested for lead and radioactivity. A client just tested American made tiles that stated they were lead-free but when tested they showed high levels of lead. So it might be wise to test any glazed tile. And be extra careful when removing them as the lead dust is particularly harmful. Tile over if possible instead of removing.
  • You may also want to avoid tiles with Microban fungicide added to them.
  • Slate and Marble - have a sealer on them already, and marble has a resin (which is applied to most marble before it hits stores). I have not been able to pick up an offgassing odour from it but make sure it is tolerable for you. They need re-sealing so make sure there is a sealer you can tolerate.
  • Glass tiles are inert and totally safe for the chemically sensitive homeowner.
  • Concrete tiles - my preference because of the beautiful designs. Look for "eco" brands or ask which additives are used. Needs to be sealed with AFM if not sealed already.
Tiles tested to be lead free: Interceramic habitat graphite, Emser tile in Bristol, American olean starting line white subway tile. 

Shower Base/Pan

I had to make a custom stainless pan for my tiny house because we did not plan the bathroom size around the ready made ones. Shower pans typically come in acrylic which would be tolerable for most people. They also come in fiberglass (it does offgas and scratches easier), cultured stone (should be tolerable), stone (sometimes with PVC under), solid surface such as Corian (minimal offgassing) and cast iron (very expensive but tolerable).

Tadelakt

Tadelakt is a natural waterproof finish for bathrooms including the shower area, that has been used in Moroccan bathhouses for centuries.

It is a labour intensive finish made from lime plaster and olive oil soap which together produce a chemical reaction that provides waterproofing.

The downside of this finish is that you may need to polish it with olive oil soap as often as every month, and like any plaster finish, cracks will likely form, needing touch ups. So, you have to be willing to do upkeep with this one. I have seen mould grow it in when it was not touched up.

For a how-to get ahold of this book: Tadelakt.

Metal Shower Stall 

I used an aluminum shower stall in my tiny house and was really happy with it. I have a whole post devoted to my shower stall. Stainless steel could also be used.

The galvanized buckets being used in tiny houses are not proving to be durable and leak proof in the long-run.

Fiberglass, Acrylic and Solid Surface

Fiberglass and acrylic showers may be an option for those not super sensitive if you installed it yourself with a non-toxic adhesive such as AFM Almighty Adhesive. Sensitive people find that fiberglass takes a few weeks to a few years to offgas. Fiberglass is low end (not that durable, higher maintenance and not that attractive).

Acrylic surrounds are a step up. There are affordable options as well as high-end option such as those by Kohler. They offgas a little but not as much as fiberglass.

Corian and Swanstone surrounds have almost no offgassing themselves, however, the epoxies approved by the companies do, and I don't know of any alternative.

Tubs


Tubs can be installed with mortar and not glue. Porcelanosa and acrylic can be installed with mortar.

Typical tubs are made of enameled steel which is tolerable for most people. Cast iron tubs are the tub of choice for many people. New tubs especially if made in the US, Canada and Europe should not contain lead. Some people like a tub with claws so that no leaks can go undiscovered behind the tub.

Accessories - Shower Curtain and Bathmat 


For a non-toxic shower curtain, I use this EVA one.

For non-toxic bath mats there are two options, natural rubber, or TPE plastic which is non-toxic and odour free but almost always contains Microban. Silicone is another non-toxic plastic it does need to offgas when it comes out of the package.

Chemical-Free Mortar Grout and Caulk


For non-toxic thinsets and grouts see my post devoted to this topic.

In order to prevent mould in the grout I would use a AFM Grout Sealer , and be sure to stay on top of maintenance and re-seal it every few years. The grout should be replaced when the mould is deeper than just surface.

Don't lay tiles over toxic particle board, or mould prone green board. Always use a cementitious board behind tiles or the Kerdi and Wedi boards.

Seal well between the sink and the wall, the bath tub and floor, around the toilet (if using a toilet with water) with caulk. I have a post about finding a tolerable caulk.

Tile Backing Systems 


The Kerdi shower system can be used with cement backer boards. Make sure to test out the whole system including Kerdi Fix caulking (which claims 0 VOC). Though most people do not use the Kerdi thinset. There are also waterproof boards that are tile backer boards and waterproofing in one: Kerdi Board and Wedi Panels are recommended to produce the most mould-proof shower or bath assembly. Both are XPS foam with a backing, Kerdi is faced with tri-lam facers containing paper, polyethylene, polypropylene, and interlaced polymer adhesive, Wedi is faced with fiberglass mesh (on both sides) and coated with synthetic polymer resin mortar. I would test those against your sensitivities, they are not odourless. Here are some videos of the Kerdi shower system, the Kerdi Board and the Wedi Panels.

Which Wall Boards to Use Behind Shower to Prevent Mould



Cementitious Boards

If you don't use Kerdi board or Wedi panels, the usual best practice material for behind showers is cemetitous boards. 

Cementitious boards that can be used behind the shower and other wet areas are Durock (zero-VOC) and Hardibacker (GreenGuard Gold). Those two brands are usually well tolerated and well tested. I had some problems with Durock myself and it does not seem 0 VOC to me, but behind tiles or a shower can be tolerable.

The walls of my tiny house are made of Magnesium Oxide board which works in place of drywall. It does have a problem with cracking along the seams, at least in a tiny house. Some folks are using MgO behind tiles but it is not the norm and we have seen numerous problems with MgO over the years.

MgO board is a cementitious wall board that claims it is non-toxic and VOC-free, and very impervious to mould. I have some doubts about the VOC claims because a person I know sent in a sample for testing and it showed formaldehyde offgassing. And, many people react to it. I reacted strongly to the dust and I also found the board itself retained its scent for 4 years and counting.

Brands are Dragonboard (available in the US and Canada) this is an American company with their own factory in China, they claim. They mostly supply subfloor, Magnum Board (available in Canada). Jetboard. This is an American company with a U.S.-patented chemistry/process. The binder is proprietary and it contains fiberglass. Forever Board is a MgO composite which contains fiberglass and proprietary ingredients, the latest claim is that they are made in the US.

The claims on where the different brands are made is a constantly changing story.

Any company with claims of 0 VOC needs to be able to back that up with testing. Some brands are mold prone, while Magnum when I used it, definitely was not.

A rep from one of the main companies claims that other companies often buy direct from China, from different factories, meaning you might not be getting the product you expected.

Magnesium board is not longer as popular as it was, due to concerns over cracking, offgassing and lawsuits over leaching in Europe.


Finishing MgO Board

You can plaster, paint or tile over MgO. Here are some tips on using plaster and what didn't stick to MgO.

A joint compound/drywall mud that works with MgO is One Pass (0 VOC).

If painting, the MgO boards would need to be primed. See finishes for a list of suitable primers and paints. I used Mythic primer and paint which was tolerable (only available in the UK now).

Reducing Moisture in the Bathroom and Preventing Mould


A fan is absolutely vital to reducing moisture and therefore mould. I would splurge on this item. If your fan is within a ceiling cavity like mine is, use an external mount fan like this one. Otherwise the fan can leak moist air into the ceiling. If you have a composting toilet and don't want to overrun the fan with your bath fan it may be advisable to use an HRV such as this one. It's always good to have a window too, to air things out.

I use this Extech humidity meter in the bathroom and the rest of the house to make sure the humidity is within a safe range of around 50%.

Keep an inexpensive moisture meter around to test the moisture content behind walls. I use this General Tools meterHere is a video from architect Cheryl Ciecko on how to check the shower with a moisture meter. Meters with pins work well on drywall and wood (but not bamboo), for professional purposes like measuring the moisture content of the framing before finishing the house, expensive meters are necessary. For your own investigations you can use the General Tools brand or if you want something a little more accurate the REED brand.


Non-Toxic Cleaning Products


Now that you have gone through all the trouble to pick non-toxic materials, and taken steps to prevent mould growth, make sure your cleaning and personal care products are all natural! Going with natural cleaning products vastly reduces the chemicals you breathe in in the bathroom. These are the ones I use and recommend.

For natural beauty products I use and recommend see this post.

Organic Towels


I recommend these organic towels from Amazon (vetted by my most extremely sensitive friend), or Coyuchi towels which are made for the chemically sensitive.


Composting Toilets



I have a composting toilet in the bathroom as it is a great sustainable option and makes it easier to be semi-off-grid in a tiny house. This post discusses some issues with composting toilets for the chemically sensitive. The one I recommend is Nature's Head or the bag type models.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!


Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 5 years of experience helping others create healthy homes. 



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Zero VOC Insulation

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Updated Spring 2019 

There are so many excellent choices for non-toxic, healthy, green insulation, there should be one to fit everyone's needs.

There are many new options that claim to be "green""soy-based" or are formaldehyde-free - this does not mean that they are VOC-free or safe. Look very closely at what's in it. Flame retardants and mildewcides are not counted as VOCs. GreenGuard Gold may or may not be good enough for you.

I recommend all of the products here, some products have affiliate programs and some do not. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission though affiliate links at no extra cost to you.

For assistance with choosing the best insulation for your needs, sensitivities, and budget, you can contact me for a one-on-one consult. 


Let's go through the options:

1. Wool Batt and Blow-In

Wool is made into batts and you can get an R-13.7 (3.5 inches) for $3.54 per square foot, plus shipping (from Florida. Ships to Canada as well as the US), and installation, from Good Shepard Wool.

Jeff of Safe Shelters has looked into Oregon Shepard batts and found that they add boric acid, sodium pentaborate decahydrate and a proprietary formulation using a natural protein. Black Mountain adds recycled polyester and borate. NatuWool is 95% wool with 5% polyester binding and treated with borax. Some of these companies declined to comment on if they have updated their additives as of late 2018.

The purest options here will be the blow-in wool insulation with one extremely sensitive person doing well with Oregon Shepard blow-in and another extremely sensitive person found Havelock loose fill had "no smell". I tested Havelock and found that it did have a very wooly smell. The natural oils of the wool have a smell that may not be okay for many sensitive people, although it is not an additive or chemical smell. Paragon wool is another good brand that claims they don't add anything unless you request one of the natural moth repellents. 

2. AirKrete

AirKrete is a cementitious blown in insulation that claims to be VOC-free. It has passed the "sleep next to it test" of many a MCS patient. The company, however, has declined to participate the industry standard VOC test as well as the proper R-value test, so there is some doubt around this product's claims. We don't know what the undisclosed 2% of this product's ingredients are. Because it is a foam, it will get into all the cracks and crevices and therefore give you a higher "real life" R-Value than the batts, although people have reported shrinking, crumbling and trouble drying. You can get it in the thickness that fits your wall. In a 2x4 wall, you will get about R-13 for 3.5 inches. Here is the source for the concerns

3. Recycled Cotton Batt

Ultratouch Insulation is what I used in my chemical-free tiny home. For the 3.5'' thickness, you get an R-Value of 13 and it is only $1.35 per square foot*. You can order it from Lowes. It was made from new denim scraps but they have moved to recycled denim. It does contain Boric and Ammonium Sulfate and an olefin binding fiber. You have to test for your own sensitivities. I would not use this product again as I have become more and more sensitive to synthetic fabrics as well as the new clothing smell (from dyes and other chemicals used in making denim). (*for 24" centres)

Wear a mask while cutting and installing as it does get extremely dusty when working with it.


4. Recycled Cellulose

Recycled cellulose is another option often slated for those with a chemical sensitivity. It is a blown-in insulation made with recycled newspaper that contains a fire repellent like boric. Lowes, Home Depot and Rona all carry separate brands and you should look into the ingredients of the one that you are considering. Newspapers are made with soy-based inks but they still contain chemicals. Dense packed cellulose is often used in Passive Houses, which have great attention to details around moisture management and green materials. It is the least expensive option of the four, and it has an R-Value of 13.3 for 3.5 inches.

Ecocell makes batts that are a mixed of cellulose and cotton. It also contains PET plastic, very small amounts of boric acid, as well as sodium poly borate and ammonium sulfate. You can find this insulation without ammonium sulfate - that may be special order.




5. Hemp 

Hemp insulation is a newer green option that I think is really promising. There are a few companies manufacturing it now, and one of the first ones was Thermo-Hemp in Europe. But now in North America we have NatuHemp is another one now available in the UK and Canada. Canadian NatuHemp which can be shipped within Canada and the US is made of 88% hemp fiber and 12% polyester fiber, with no chemical binders and no off-gassing (they claim). Sunstrand is in the early stages (in 2018) of producing hemp insulation for the general market in the US. The binder is unspecified/proprietary. Another hemp (with flax added) insulation available in the US is Breathe. The flame retardant is unspecified.

Ask them what they add to it apart from hemp - alternate fibers, binders, flame retardants and if it's organic. And always test a sample first! Expect to pay twice the amount compared to fiberglass insulation.

It is R-13.3 for 3.5 inches


6. Styrofoam/Rigid Foam

If you prefer to watch a video on the three rigid foams I made this video to explain the toxins in them.

Johns Manville Foil Faced Polyiso has been the most popular brand among those who are sensitive. But they have discontinued Energy 3E which was the one made without TCPP (it used organo-phosphorus FR). Most polyisos have TCPP (a halogenated flame retardant). GAF polyiso EnergyGuard-NH uses a halogen-free flame retardant (which is phosphate based, like Energy 3E was). "Unlike TCPP, the flame retardant becomes part of the polymer backbone of the insulation—so there is no free flame retardant that can leach out, according to GAF’s director of sustainability Martin Grohman. TCPP, by contrast, is not chemically bonded to the polyiso polymer, so it can more readily escape."Source

EPS and XPS insulations were both treated with the flame retardant hexabromocyclododecane (HBCD) until recently. Dow Styrofoam and Owens Corning Foamular insulation no longer contain HBCD. Many are now using a butadiene styrene brominated copolymer. (Source). If using EPS in a tiny house I would recommend borate treated foams to prevent ants.

All of these foams have no odour and most sensitive people do not react to them. EPS usually uses pentane as a blowing agent, the final product has trace amounts of pentane which dissipates rather quickly and so even as it breaks down it does not offgas further. EPS, despite the name (polystyrene), does not offgas styrene. It is considered 0 VOC (pentane and styrene are not exempt VOCs and the flame retardants are considered non-volatile). The concerns over polystyrene (Styrofoam) and styrene comes from few things a) chemicals released during the manufacturing of the product b) the product is very toxic if you burn it and c) the styrene can leach if you drink beverages especially hot or very specific beverages out of Styrofoam cups. In the form of insulation, I would consider this product to be non-toxic, 0 VOC, odourless and stable, with the only risk being non-volatile flame retardants. This is a very old product with a long track record, here are a couplelinks to info on it. The foil faces of these insulations block the flame retardants if they are sealed up.

XPS and polyiso both have some "thermal drift" (the blowing agents offgas) over time. The foil side on the polyiso will protect you from this. As for XPS: "over a long period of time (50 to 75 years), the blowing agent slowly diffuses through the thickness of the foam". Typical blowing agents for XPS are CFC-12, HCFC-142b and HFC-134a, but they change their formulas over time. HFC-134a will be eliminated from extruded polystyrene by January 1, 2021. Typical current blowing agents for polyiso are CO2 and pentane. I consider this offgassing to be very minimal and I still think this is a good insulation for a non-toxic house.

Flame retardants are sometimes considered non-volatile and sometimes semi-volatile and are found in dust form. They can be absorbed through the skin (depending on the chemical and its bond with the product). EPS used in packaging and cups, does not contain a flame retardant, and people have sometimes been able to source this type of foam for small structures.

For use in a tiny house, foams have the advantage of having a high R-value and being light. All three foams have a high insulative value compared to batts or cellulose. In a 2x4 wall, you will get 3.5 inches of insulation at about R-19 for XPS, R-14 for EPS. Polyiso comes in at around R-20.5 but that is dependent on the thickness of each layer, the brand, and it loses R-value the colder it gets.

7. Cork


Thermacork insulation, unlike cork flooring, does not contain adhesives. It is held together by compressing it with heat which releases a natural binder in the cork. The cork, therefore, gives off a smoky smell as well as the natural smell of cork. This is a newer product in North America and is more expensive than the more conventional options. It can be used as the facade of a house which serves the purpose of siding, insulation and noise reduction. See this post as an example. The R-value is about R-13 for 3.5 inches.




8. Mineral Wool

Roxul is the most common and accessible mineral wool insulation. They have a new version that does not contain formaldehyde, but it has a proprietary binder. The ones that do contain phenol formaldehyde should cure completely within a few months max (probably much less). I would suggest trying both options. It is mould resistant. I did get a rash from handling it where it contacted my skin but I did not pick up a smell/offgassing of formadehyde. Roxul is my top pick for a healthy homes in most situations, though you could choose to go with something more pure or natural.

3.5 inches is R-15. You can find this at hardware stores across the US and Canada. The soundproofing board version can be bought through Amazon.

Thermafiber by Owens Corning is another brand that is formaldehyde-free.

American Rockwool is a brand which is harder to source. The company claims no chemical additives or binders. R 14.5 in a 3.5 inch wall. They also have a blown in option.

An easy way to cut through mineral wool is with an electric carving knife.

This insulation has good soundproofing qualities.

These are my Recommendations for Safety gear for Mineral Wool and Fiberglass Insulation


9. Fiberglass 

There are a number of fiberglass insulation brands that are very low in VOCs. EcoBatt by Knauf was recommend by someone who could not tolerate polystyrene, cotton or wool. It is made with a "natural" binder and does give off a small amount of formaldehyde, phenol and ammonia (source). Owens Corning Ecotouch Fibreglass insulation has GreenGuard Children and Schools certification which was the best GreenGuard certification for low emissions (now rolled into GreenGuard Gold) the binder is formaldehyde-free and "made from widely available plant materials" according to the company. Certainteed's Fiberglass insulation is also made with a plant-based binder. Johns Manville Fibreglass insulation is GreenGuard Gold and uses a formaldehyde-free acrylic binder. We don't know much about what biobinders actually are but by looking at this patent you can tell that they look mostly safe however it's hard to zero in on what it is. There are some preservatives there and when they use a biobased binder it looks like they are adding a biocide as well.

Fiberglass insulation is made with boron but I don't see any other flame retardant added, especially in the bats that do not have paper backing, and the spray in.

3.5 inches is R-13-R-14.


10. Wood Fiberboard

Wood fiberboard is often used in High Performance/Passive House designs. One popular brand in North America is Gutex. It is 95% wood (spruce/fir, post-industrial, recycled and new wood), 4% polyurethane and about 1% paraffin. Total VOC level of 187 μg/m3.




11. Reflectix and Prodex

Reflectix is a bubble foil made of aluminum and polyethylene. It is flexible, very thin and claims to have a very high R-value. The thicker version claims R-21 (which is higher than 5 inches of wool). These claims are disputed by Green Building Advisor and the Government of Canada. The former states that the 3/8th inch foil has an R-value of only 1 (the same as a single pane of glass). This would hardly be useful anywhere unless it is in a curved trailer or other RV or vehicle where all other options have been ruled out. Prodex is another similar material, foil and polyethylene whose R-value is disputed.

12. Aerogel

Aerogel is a fairly new product for home insulation, usually used in RVs. The term itself can refer to a variety of materials ranging from silica, to polyisocyanate to formaldehyde. You will have to check with the company to find out what they are made of and what the VOC levels are. Most of the Aerogel insulation brands are silica based. I have seen some that I would expect to be very low or 0 VOC. This one has foil backing which would block all the VOCs if sealed up. It does give off ammonia. They claim an extremely high R-Value of R-10 to R-30 per inch. The R-value claims are doubted by GBA. They are ideal for curved structures such as domes, arched cabins and curved trailers. They are also very pricey.




13. Thinsulate



3M Thinsulate (SM600) is an insulation used in vans, other vehicles and RVs. It is made of polyethylene terephthalate (a type of polyester) and polypropylene fibers which will be tolerable to many. The backing is polypropylene. 1% or less of the additives are proprietary and therefore unlisted. The health rating is 0 which is good. What I don't love about this product in vehicles is that the insulation itself is vapour permeable and it is attached to the walls with 3M 90 Spray (GreenGuard certified, not GreenGuard Gold, not reported to be very tolerable). You may find this insulation tolerable and it may be a good product for a tiny house or structure. You can buy it on Amazon and Ebay.

R-value of 5.2 for the 1.65 inch

Another similar but more unusual insulation is made from polyethylene and polyester for homes. (It is more popular in some countries outside of North America.) It may be tolerable depending on what is added to it.

14. Vacuum Insulation Panels 

Vacuum Insulation Panels have the highest insulation value of any of the home insulation materials. These Panasonic panels have an R-Value of R-60 per inch. They were used in the latest Leaf House design (tiny house). This would allow you to build a tiny house for almost any climate. The foil vacuum pack will block any VOCs from migrating through, but your moisture management system would have to be planned carefully here.














15. Closed Cell Spray Foam 


Demilic Foam can be well tolerated
Many closed cell spray foams are Greenguard Gold certified. They are polyurethane foams, some add a soy component to it. Closed cell foam is a vapour barrier and can be very a useful insulation in specific systems, especially if mould is a bigger concern than off-gassing. In theory, they do not offgas, but generally people report that they do, and that is a huge risk. While most of my clients do not want to take this risk there are certain building types where you should seriously consider it such as cargo vans and other metal structures. Keep in mind a small sample may offgass much much quicker than this foam when it is in a structure. It must be mixed and installed perfectly otherwise you have a disaster on your hands. Those moderately sensitive report it taking two years to off-gas. See the series Foam Fails by 475.

These are my Recommendations for Tools for Cutting Insulation 

1. Hand Shears for sheep's wool 2. A utility knife for fiberglass  3. A sharpened putty knife for foam (here's a video) 4. A electric carving knife for Roxul/Mineral wood 



Insulating Around Windows and Doors - Non-Toxic Options

Spray foam is often used around window and door. Handi Foam is GreenGuard Gold and will be tolerable for many folks after curing. In Canada the best source is OL. I find this spray foam to be odourless once cured. Other brands like Great Stuff, which you can find anywhere seem to be to me to be very similar.

Instead of using spray foam around windows and doors you can fill in the gaps withBacker Rod and seal with non-toxic caulk if needed. (I have a post on caulking if you need to test multiple brands).

My Recommendations for Materials to Use Around Windows and Doors


Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!


Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 5 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

A Non-Toxic Kitchen

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Creating a VOC-Free, Non-Toxic Kitchen


If you need assistance choosing the best cabinets and counter tops for your sensitivities, please contact me for a one-on-one consultation. 


Non-Toxic Kitchen Cabinets


KERF Cabinets vic www.kerfdesign.com
Conventional cabinets are a large source of VOCs in the kitchen, with all conventional brands using some kind of pressed wood, MDF, plywood or particleboard (or melamine with a particleboard interior) which typically give off formaldehyde. Finishes are likely to be toxic unless stated otherwise.

Healthy cabinets would be made of solid wood, 0 VOC plywood, or metal. Sometimes glass or MgO board can be used. Of course, some are sensitive to the smell of wood and wood can also pick up and hold onto secondary odours. My cabinets are solid wood, but the reason cabinets are made of pressed wood products is that solid wood can warp in the kitchen.

I recommend all of the products here, some products have affiliate programs and some do not. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission though affiliate links at no extra cost to you.

Metal

There are companies that make metal kitchen cabinets Bertolini (affordable, 100% metal). Fadior makes stainless steel cabinets. IMD has no wood and no adhesives (North America and Europe). When shopping for metal cabinets you want to see if there are any non-metal components and what those are.

Solid Wood

Healthy Cabinet Makers make solid wood cabinets aimed at the chemically sensitive.

Low VOC

There are a large number of companies, Neil Nelly Cabinets, for example, that make low-VOC wooden cabinets (test for your own sensitivities). The company KERF makes cool looking cabinets out of Purebond (formaldehyde-free) plywood, and zero-VOC finishes (some people do react to Purebond). Another popular brand is Crystal Cabinets, the main issue here is with their finishes, but you can finish them yourself. This post lists non-toxic cabinet paint and finishes. There are many other brands in this category of low VOC but you have to look carefully at them.

Custom

Cabinets can be made with a combination of solid wood, Purebond (formaldehyde-free plywood), possibly formaldehyde-free particle board, or MgO board. Drawers can be made of mostly metal. (My cabinets are custom made with solid wood, MgO and IKEA metal drawers). Some ideas to cut down on costs are:
  • Use shelves instead of upper cabinets - either wood, glass or metal
  • Salvage cabinets and countertops from demolitions as they may have off-gassed or you may find metal ones
  • DIY simple open shelving made of solid wood, tadelakt, metal, or glass
  • DIY metal and glass, here is a description
  • Incorporate affordable metal drawers or shelves inside of cabinets
Some of the same companies that make kitchen cabinets also make non-toxic bathroom vanities and closets. Here is a company making solid wood closets

Non-Toxic Counter Tops


Soapstone via DesignBuildMADE.com
Butcher Block: The glues may or may not be tolerable. They are affordable. Check to make sure it's solid wood all the way through, as the ones I have seen at IKEA are not solid wood. Hemp oil is my top pick for a wood finish, beeswax can be added as well.

Solid Wood: More and more I'm seeing thick solid wood counter tops. This can be a good option if you can source a solid slab of wood.

Solid Slate: Find out if a sealant has been used. You can use Milk Paint Walnut sealer on raw slate as well as Tung Oil. Some slate is dense enough to not require a sealer.

Concrete: Here is a non-toxic counter top mix that does not contain fly ash, vinyl or latex. Seal with AFM Safecoat 2K Pro Urethane from GDCWalnut Sealer, or Tung Oil. Odies Oil and Daddy Vans also make non toxic oil and wax concrete sealers, but they do not disclose all of their ingredients. This is a very affordable option, especially if you DIY.

Granite and Marble:  Find out what was used as a sealant and resin, or find a raw piece that does not contain either of those. Ubatuba granite does not need a sealer so that is a major plus side to that. Other types of dense granite don't require a sealer (you will have to find out how dense it is/perform a water test).

The downside of most types of granite and marble is that they need to be resealed every year or two and you need to make sure you can tolerate a sealer. Walnut Oil works on granite and marble if they are not glossy. Another low toxin sealer is Meta Creme. Tung should not be used on marble. Whether it can be used on granite is still a debate. Linseed should not be used on either type because it does yellow. Test for radioactivity with granite. They don't always need plywood as an underlayment, it depends on the thickness. You could also try using a different type of underlayment.

Other Stones: Onyx needs a sealer that is reapplied every few years. Sandstone is a cool option, just use a non-toxic sealer. Soapstone is a good natural option that is usually sealed with mineral oil but can be sealed with Milk Paint Soapstone Sealer. That soapstone sealer will work on onyx and sandstone as long as they are honed and don't already have a gloss finish on them. Quartzite is a stone that is often very dense, not requiring a sealer.

Hemp Oil should work on all the stones and concrete as well as wood (I haven't seen it done on stone/concrete but it's also a drying oil like the others, and the companies claim it will work). Do a test to check for yellowing on light stones.

Stainless Steel, Aluminum and Copper:  Needs ground fault interrupter. Use non-toxic underlayment. Copper would require a sealer.

Quartz via www.CambriaUSA.com
Quartz: I used Cambria Quartz in my tiny home and it's absolutely beautiful. It is made of ground quartz, pigment and resin binders. They claim that the final product is fully cured (no VOCs) but it did have an offgassing odour for the first few days. After that, I found it totally safe. I did not use any glues to fasten it. The price is comparable to marble, but more than granite.Is a long lasting non-porous material that doesn't need a sealer. It could be offgassed outside until it doesn't have a smell. Do not allow them to spray a chemical cleaner on it after they cut it and before they install it. Stay away from the dust while they are cutting it.

Solid Surface: Corian is made from an acrylic polymer and alumina trihydrate and is GreenGuard Gold certified.  Paperstone and Richlite are paper-based, claim 0 VOC, and are light options (ideal for trailers!). Richlite is new paper, Paperstone is recycled. Recycled glass is very similar to quartz and is also considered as safe. Icestone is a brand that makes cement & glass countertops - they claim 0 VOC and need a marble/granite sealer. Durat is appealing because it might be the lightest option for a trailer, it is low VOC, polyester and acrylic (made partly from recycled cell phones). This may not be preferable for people with sensitivities. Another plastic option that is super light is Metem which is recycled HDPE and claims no offgassng. Avonite makes an acrylic option and a "resin" option that are GreenGuard certified.

Tiles: A good option other than the fact that the grout will need to be sealed regularly and could still become susceptible to mould. A good non-toxic tile sealer is AFM Grout Sealer. You can also find solid porcelain counter tops now like iTOP|Ker which look like a good option.

Tadelakt: Tadelakt counters are a unique and beautiful option that are totally natural and safe. It needs to be a darker colour because it is susceptible to staining and needs a wooden edge, as the plaster edge is vulnerable. It requires some upkeep. Here's a really handy how-to for earthen counter tops. Although it's very labour intensive, if you do it yourself it's very affordable.

Tempered Glass: Tempered glass is costly but is a very pure option.

Laminate/Formica: There is some misunderstanding on whether laminate is toxic. The top layer of laminate is melamine plastic, bu the substrate is usually particle board which offgasses formaldehyde. In lightweight trailers the substrate can be polystyrene EPS foam. Even then, the problem can be in strong glues used to hold these together. There is another way. You can buy Formica sheets at Home Depot and attach them to the substrate of your choosing. You may put this over an existing laminate counter, over offgassed plywood, EPS foam on other substrate. Almighty Adhesive is a glue that can be used on many combinations (check yours first). And although it does look like a cheaper material, it can look chique in some of the new colours like solid black. This DIY counter top is very affordable.

A great glue for counter tops if you do choose to use one to glue it to the cabinets, is Almighty Adhesive. It's extremely tolerable for a glue.

100% Lead-Free Faucets


waterstone.com
There is a very unfortunate certification for faucets which is named "lead-free" but means the faucet can contain 0.25% lead. If you are concerned with lead (no level of lead is a safe level and it's difficult to chelate), you want to look for 100% lead-free faucets. The ones I have seen that are 100% lead-free are made of 100% solid stainless steel.

Parmir claims to make 100% lead-free faucets but a client used these lead swabs to test a kitchen and bathroom faucet and the test proved positive.

The other options for 100% lead-free faucets can be pricey. MGS an Italian company, Nivito and in Canada Bay Castle makes 100% stainless faucets. Trywell makes a 100% stainless steel spigot for RO systems. Waterstone has some stainless steel options and those ones are 100% stainless.

If you cannot afford a 100% lead free faucet you can add a certified filter to the tap like this Brita one which will remove lead. It's ideal to also have a whole house system or reverse osmosis (RO) as well to remove contaminants. The type of system needed depends on if you are on city or well water, and which contaminants your water contains. If you are on well water, a RO or charcoal system is not advised without having a primary UV or ceramic filter to take care of microbes first. Please contact me if you would like help choosing the best type of filter system for your home. I find the companies that sell and install whole systems almost always oversell what is needed. 

Non-Toxic Cooking

Avoid non-stick cookware (Teflon) as it gives off perfluorooctanoic acid, something you do not want to be ingesting. Instead of a rice cooker which has a non-stick lining, I use the Instant Pot which can be used for rice, stew, soup, meat, eggs, veggies and so many other things. It has a stainless steel lining. It does need to be offgassed, like any appliance.

Avoid aluminum and copper cookware, as it leaches. Stainless steel is preferred with glassware used where possible. Antique glassware/Crystal wine glasses can leach lead.

Avoid plastics and Styrofoam containers, including tin cans and canning jars lined with plastic, which leach chemicals into food. Unlined aluminum and tin cans can leach metals into the food.

Appliances for the Chemically Sensitive

The chemically sensitive person will want to avoid gas and propane appliances. Especially gas stoves, which will be the largest emitter of fumes. A propane powered refrigerator should be OK if you do not have enough amps to power an electric one. A propane powered fridge vents fully to the outside and could be acceptable in a trailer with a small electrical load.

It might be better for some to use a two burner hot plate and small convection oven.

Consider using a bar sized, or apartment sized refrigerator to reduce EMFs and save on your electric bill. My fridge is 3.1 cubic feet and it's a perfect size for me. I left mine running in a garage for a month before using it. Some people find stainless fridges offgas less than the plastic ones, others disagree. Even top of the line glass door fridges don't necessarily offgas less than regular ones. You will want to sniff as many brands as you can. Buying the floor model is beneficial for some people. Washing out all residues from new fridges can help.

Another very sensitive blogger, Janis reports that Sunfrost Refrigerators use fiberglass instead of plastic. But, they will bake it at high heat before they ship it to offgas it in advance. Their fridge uses less electricity than normal a fridge (fewer EMFs). They are pricey at $3000-$4000.

Some like the whirlpool brand two door stainless models. 

It's a good idea to have a range over your stove that vents to the outside to reduce humidity and prevent mould in the home.

Dishwashers that are stainless on the inside seem to be better tolerated.

Although not necessarily in the kitchen, with washing machines it's best to go with a top loader. Though a front loader can be carefully maintained and cleaned in many cases for mould prevention. For a top loader it is recommended for the chemically sensitive to use a model with a metal drum, and gear dry, not belt dry. Some of the Samsung models have been recommended.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!


Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 5 years of experience helping others create healthy homes. 



Non-Toxic Paints, Sealers & Finishes

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Updated Spring 2019

Table of Contents

1. Wood Finishes
     i. Natural Oils & Waxes
     ii. Stains
     iii. Sealers
2. VOC-Free Paint
     i. Acrylic With Mildewcide
     ii. Acrylic Without Mildewcide
     iii. Exterior Paints
     iv. Non-Acrylic Mineral Paints
     v. Primers
     vi. Metal Primers
     vii. Cabinet Sealers & Paint
3. Plaster
4. Sealers
    i. Sealing in Toxins
    ii. Sealing Exterior Wood
    iii. Tile, Concrete & Stone Sealers

I recommend all of the products here, some products have affiliate programs and some do not. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission though affiliate links at no extra cost to you.

If you need assistance choosing the best paints, sealers and finishes for your sensitivities and project, please contact me for a one-on-one consultation. 


1. Wood Finishes

i. Natural Oils and Waxes

Linseed and Tung Oil

natural non-toxic linseed tried and trueLinseed Oil and 100% Tung Oil are the traditional natural finishing oils for wood. Tung oil is cut with a thinner, which is usually hard to tolerate. Linseed comes in three types, raw (which is pure, not usually used for wood as it takes a long time to dry and is often cut with a thinner), "boiled" which has driers, usually metals like colbalt or petroleum, (which I would want to avoid), and polymerised/stand oil which is pure, food safe, and faster to dry. This one does not require a thinner. Polymerised is the type you want to use. The odours of these oils (especially the citrus solvent) comes from their naturally occurring VOCs. For the chemically sensitive, these two oils have odours that are stronger than other options and the solvents/thinners, are not always tolerable (the smell does fade with time). Tung is a stronger smelling oil than polymerised linseed.

Woodworkers having varying opinions on the two oils, each camp preferring one over the other, with some noting caution to linseed as being less mould resistant in certain conditions. And tung having the advantage of holding up well to water and mildew outside.

Rubio Monocoat makes linseed based finishes (natural and modified) that reportedly smell like honey or lemony incense. It contains a wax component (natural and modified) as well. They claim zero-VOCs. You may still want to test that product before using it. The accelerator which is a part B drying agent, lists hexamethylene diisocyanate as an ingredient (0.5%), but not all ingredients are listed. Because part A (without the drier) takes a very long time to dry it sounds like part raw linseed to me. This means part B is unknown driers and hexamethylene diisocyanate. It does contain non-aromatic hydrocarbons but they claim no metalic driers and no solvents. I will only use brands that disclose all their ingredients. Though sensitive folks reporting that they really like this brand which is important data as well.

Fusion is a similar oil and stain in one that is more transparent but they don't reveal all the siccatives (driers). Tried and True is my top recommendation for linseed + stain because of their disclosure of ingredients, and no driers are used.

Oils labeled as teak oil or danish oil from hardware stores are usually a mix of oils like linseed or tung, solvents, and possibly resins, UV inhibitors and mildewcides. Make sure they disclose all of the ingredients.

Other Drying Oils 

natural hemp non toxic drying oil safe
Photo from homesteadhouse.ca
Hemp Oil is my top choice for wood oil due to how tolerable it is. It does have a light aroma, which I would consider pleasant, but I would test for your own sensitivities (and allergies!) by buying a small amount first. They claim the only ingredient is hemp oil in the Milk Paint and the Homestead House brands.

Linseed, tung, refined hemp and walnut oil are drying oils (although some claim walnut is a semi-drying oil so I would not recommend it over the others. I have seen it turn floors rancid). The drying oils penetrate, harden and preserve wood and provide a long-lasting finish that does not turn rancid. Coconut oil if refined, is another option. Just don't use regular cooking coconut oil. I wouldn't recommend using olive or other (non-drying) oils that can go rancid on wood.

Another oil to check out is Penofin Verde which is Brazilian rosewood oil based with "other natural oils combined with select vegetable ester solvents and zero VOC pigments". It has 1g/l VOC and contains linseed.

I used Hemp Oil on all the interior wood in my chemical-free tiny home (floors, stairs, interior door, window sils). I am really happy with it. The ladder to the loft does get grimy, though the dirt does wipe off. Use refined hemp oil (made for a wood finish) as opposed to the edible oil from the grocery store. This finish is certainly the safest and healthiest option for wooden toys, countertops and other food safe surfaces.

Oils need to be reapplied every few years or more often in high traffic areas.

Waxes

Wood (but not floors) can then be finished with a beeswax polish for extra durability. Beeswax takes 30 days to dry. I used beeswax on the window sills to provide a water-resistant finish and I'm really happy with it, it would also work well on counters, cutting boards and toys. This Beeswax/Carnauba Polish works well but has mineral spirits in it. Mineral spirits to evaporate and leave the product free of this ingredient once cured. Here's a helpful video on finishing wood with food grade hemp and beeswax finish. I like this Fusion brand as well (which is 100% Hemp, and beeswax and hemp with no additives). Wax needs to be re-applied every year.

Shellac is a resin, and one of my top picks for many different purposes. Shellac it it's purest version is the natural flakes and alcohol. You can purchase this from shellac.net or Amazon. Shellac can be used on many indoor surfaces, including floors, toys and furniture. Natural, de-waxed, would be the purest choice for most projects but it does come in synthetic. If you want to buy it ready made, Zinsser makes one they claim is only shellac and alcohol. I discuss this again in the section on sealing in toxins since this finish is great at sealing in offgassing and odours.

Oils for Earthen Floor Finishes

If you don't have ox blood on hand, no problem, you can seal your earthen floor with any of the hardening oils we talked about under wood finishes. I would use Hemp Oil, though a final coat of linseed and possibly wax, may be needed. This blogger claims that Walnut Oil went rancid with time. Beeswax can also be used in the final coat for extra protection if desired.

ii. Stains

natural non toxic hemp oil wood
My Kitchen
Each oil on its own will tint the wood to a varying degree, so you should test for the look you want to achieve - you might find that you don't need a stain at all.

Non-toxic milk paint pigments can be used as a stain applied to the raw wood before finishing with oil and wax. Here is my how-to for these pigments as they are very tricky to work with! I used them on my floors, my bathroom cabinets and my two stairs. I found these stains too difficult to work with and would go for premixed next time. Earth Pigments also makes natural stains. Be sure to test them first and follow the instructions on the type of wood and how dark you can go, and you will get better results than me.

I prefer the oil and stain in one options. Rubio Monocoat, Penefin Verde, and Tried and True make premixed oil stains.

For non-toxic water-based stains, I  would recommend either ECOS Paints stains or AFM Durotone.

iii. Wood Sealers

ECOS varnishes, which I previously recommended, have had some reported problems. A few people are now reporting that water leaves very bad stains on the wood. This could be a major problem that would cost a lot of money to fix. I used ECOS sealer on the wood in my kitchen and am very happy with it. I have not had these problems so I do not know what accounts for it, but for now I am suggesting caution with ECOs. Though other polyurethane finishes can also have this problem.

AFM Polyureseal is liked by many. Another zero-VOC polyurethane is Vermeister.

An unusual non-toxic way to finish floors is a Danish process using a soap finish. You can either use just soap, or soap and lye. Lye is quite toxic while it's reacting and I don't know how long that takes to dissipate. When used in the making of soap the lye reacts with other components and in the end you just have soap.

2. VOC-Free Paint

There is a myriad of paints claiming to be green or zero-VOC, but most don't list their ingredients, others list the main components, while some only list what has to be disclosed on a SDS.

i. With Mildewcide:

Benjamin Moore makes a number of zero-VOC paints, one of their oldest lines is called Natura. It is high-quality, and comes in great colours but contains a mildewcide (something you should generally avoid). It was intolerable for me while wet, but good when dry. Make sure they are using their zero-VOC pigments with it. If you want something you can go out and buy from a store right now, this might be your best option. Ben Moore stores are all over the US and Canada.

Sherwin Williams Harmony - another easy to find zero-VOC paint with zero-VOC pigments also has a mildewcide. Sherwin Willians ProMar 200 is the most affordable zero-VOC paint I have seen (zero-VOC pigments). You can buy this brand at Lowes.

(Note: other hardware store brands may not carry zero-VOC pigments).

YOLO Colourhouse - very low-VOC base (can be considered 0-VOC), but the tints contain VOCs. Also contains a mildewcide. Hard to know which market this specialty paint is aimed at. Purchase online or at specialty green building stores.

Dunn Edwards - Spartazero is zero-VOC with zero-VOC pigments. You can find this at smaller chain hardward and paint stores.

ii. Here are the top non-toxic acrylic paints - no mildewcide:

Mythic Paint - The paints and primers are zero-VOC. This is now only available in the UK with some use in Asia. The word is they sold the formula to a new company so I will update as this unfolds (I have not been able to track the sale of this formula but a commenter believes American Pride may be similar or the same. I have not been able to verify that). ECOs is the new fan favourite, but Much Smarter Paint claims to have ECOs matched.

AFM Safecoat Zero-VOC Paint - Tintable to thousands of colors. It is zero-VOC with zero-VOC colorants. (Though the primer is low-VOC.) No mildewcides. You can buy this online.

ECOs - Their primer and paints are zero-VOC. They recently removed mildewcides from the formula (2017) however they have the ingredient 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione in there which is the precursor to one of the banned mildewcides. This is the most popular paint right now (2018-2019) for chemically sensitive folks. Buy online.

Envirosafe - zero-VOC, zero-VOC pigments. No biocides. Contact them for dealers.

Durasoy - This paint is a little different, it is a zero- VOC acrylic and natural oil paint. No biocides. You can purchase it online.

Costs:

As of 2017 here is the cost comparison for zero VOC paints:

Sherwin Williams Harmony - $55, Sherwin Williams ProMar 200 - $24-30
Benjamin Moore Natura - $57, Benjamin Moore Regal Select  $50, Benjamin Moore ben $40
Dunn-Edwards Spartazero $50
AFM Safecoat - $59 + shipping
ECOS Paints - $52 and up + shipping
Envirosafe - $44 and up + shipping

iii. Exterior Paints

There are very few exterior paints that are zero-VOC, ECOs has an exterior primer and paint, and AFM has an exterior paint.

iv. Natural, Mineral (Non-Acrylic) Paints:

Romabio - The most popular mineral-based paints. Clients seem to really like them.

BioShield - Becoming more popular, Bioshield makes chalk and clay paints that people like.

Milk Paint - I used Milk Paint in my chemical-free house to seal in the dust on the walls. On unfinished wood you need to add white glue to milk paint and I have not found a glue that I found 100% tolerable. Milk paint is also not great in a high moisture area like the bathroom because of the casein. (It could be prone to mould in a high moisture area). I would avoid it if I did things again. Though it's great for some applications.

Green Planet Paints - (Natural Source, Clay-Based Paint) available online, and in specialty paint stores in Canada and the US.

Auro Natural Paints - (Natural Source, Clay-Based Paint) available online, ships to US and Canada.

Clay and milk paint are not appropriate for high moisture areas.


v. Primers

Try AFM Safecoat Low VOC Transitional Primer or their New Wallboard Primer for new drywall (both low-VOC, but they seal in toxins).
ECOs is another brand that makes primers including a new wallboard primer (no mildewcide).
Sherwin Williams Promar 200 is a zero-VOC primer (no mildewcide).

vi. Metal Primers

AFM makes MetalCoat Primer (zero-VOC), the Mythic Primer above can be used on metal (now out of business in North America, but available in the UK).

vii. Cabinets Sealers and Paints 

Clear Finish:
ECOs polyurethane (0 VOC)
AFM Acrylac VOC 124g/l
AFM Poly BP VOC 120 g/l
Vermeister Polyurethane Finish 0 VOC

Painted Finish:
AFM Safecoat Ecolacq

Regular paint with a clear finish doesn't usually look great on cabinets as it will look painted with brush strokes. If you do want to use a conventional paint on cabinets, Fusion makes acrylic paints with mineral tints for furniture that claim 0 VOC. You can buy a sample pack here. They have some tips on how to paint with fewer brush marks and they have a product to help you paint over old cabinets.

Oil finish:
Monocoat oil plus for furniture
Penefin Verde rosewood/linseed 1g/l

3. Plasters

There are clay-based plasters and lime-based plasters. I prefer lime because it is naturally mould resistant. Plasters can be tinted with natural pigments. Here is a detailed post on my experiences using clay plaster and lime wash in my tiny house.

Plaster of Paris can be highly tolerable. The USG brand comes recommended by sensitive folks and can be found at hardware stores like Home Depot.

To learn more, get yourself a copy of The Natural Plaster Book.


4. Sealers

i. Sealing in Toxins  

My exterior
If you are buying new wood-framed windows, the wood will likely have been treated with fungicides. and should be sealed with AFM Safecoat Safe Seal, AFM Safecoat Transitional Primer, or Zinsser Shellac. This shellac from Zinsser claims that the only ingredients are shellac and alcohol. That's one you can find at Home Depot as well as online.

Safeseal is also used to seal in formaldehyde in wood products. You can also use a homemade shellac which is one of the best sealers to seal in odours and VOCs.

For sealing in fragrance, smoke, terpenes or other VOCs please contact me for a consultation and we will find the best product for your application.

ii. Exterior Wood Sealers

To protect exterior wood against the elements, you could use something a little stronger (as the VOCs will not be within the building envelope) - oils like Rubio Monocoat hybrid, and Penofin Verde. Clear sealers: zero-VOC Cedar-Seal, the same company makes another sealer for other woods. AFM has a new exterior clear sealer EXT.

iii. Tile, Concrete, Stone Sealers

My favourite
Sealers include:
AFM Mexeseal (for marble, limestone, granite, sandstone, slate and concrete)
ECOS sealer/stain for concrete
ECOs sealer for stone/tile/grout
Lithofin(for stone and more)
AFM Safecoat Penetrating Water Stop (zero-VOC) - I am using it on my bathroom tiles and have used it on the clay plaster in my kitchen
Milk Paint Soapstone Sealer for Soapstone
Kinloch is a 0 VOC sealer for granite, marble, concrete and some tiles
Metacreme for natural stones and concrete

Tung oil also makes a good finish for concrete. For a more detailed look at sealing stone and concrete counter tops see my post on kitchens, where I go through the types of counter tops and sealers for each one.

For sealing grout use AFM Safecoat Grout Sealer or AFM Safecoat Safe Seal. I discuss more grout sealers options in my post on grout and thinset.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!


Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 5 years of experience helping others create healthy homes. 


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Using Ozone to Kill and Denature Mould

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The Effectiveness of Ozone Generators on Mould, Mycotoxins, Fragrance and Smoke 


Ozone kills and denatures mould on surfaces, eliminates many VOCS and odours such as perfume. It can also remediate smoke smell in certain materials. 

This post contains affiliate links to relevant products that I use and recommend. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

For those who prefer a video format, I have explained the process of a shock treatment and the risks in this video.


Does Ozone Denature Mold and Mycotoxins?


Some say that ozone kills mould spores but does not denature the toxins (EHC). These two studies show it can denature the toxins. Based on these two studies (that use very very high amounts of ozone), and the experience of me and those extremely sensitive to mycotoxins left over after remediation, I do think it is accurate to say ozone actually kills and denatures mold. 

It can still be a good idea to HEPA vacuum after ozonating to clean up dead spores. 

A shock treatment is either a very high doses for shorter amounts of time or very long treatments (from 24 hours to 48 hours). You really have to experiment if you want to denature mould and see what works for you, and be prepared for byproducts (discussed more below).


Which Ozone Generator to Use


I started with the Jenesco Ozone Generator with an output of 100-2100 mg. This is a high quality unit with a timer and dosage control. 

I liked this unit because it's well made and, the timer settings and dosage control setting were useful.

This one comes in around $400





I have have little Airtherial 5000 mg one (pictured left) this is the lowest cost one I have seen. If you are doing a shock treatment for mould you need one with a hold setting like this one. If you are using it at low amounts for fragrance you will only need the basic timer. You cannot control the dosage with these little inexpensive ones but you can find them for under $100 on Amazon.






For only a little more than a hundred, you can buy this Ivation model which can dial down the dose from  6000 mg to 500 mg. This is what I would use for going after fragrance and smoke as well as cleaning product residue. You don't want a high dose for that application.







Results with Offgassing, Mould, Fragrance, Smoke



Offgassing

- Chemical smell in Camplite trailer reduced after a few treatments

- Glue smell reduced in brand new metal cargo trailer (this seems to work really well o the new glue smell in basic trailers).

-I would not use this is a new house or conventional trailer (that is full of plastics and upholstery) to reduce offgassing, it's too risky and does not work that well

Mould

- Mould remediated in all metal trailer after 48 hours high dose

- I also had a mould problem in another house I was living in. After the mould was remediated I was still very sick - throat swelling, extreme POTs and terrible insomnia. I then ozonated each room for 24 hours with the machine and was able to come back without any symptoms. I removed all the fabric and cushions from the area before ozonating and there were no adverse chemical reactions with the wood or anything else in the house.

- I've used it 4 times now in post remediations with a 24-hour shock treatment. This for me definitely denatures mycotoxins. I have also done 48 shock treatments in metal trailers that were very effective. (I let in oxygen during that time).

- However one of these times the 24-hour treatment created horrible byproducts in a wooden house. Even after excessive airing out I got extremely sick. It seems as though I overdid the ozone or did not have enough oxygen coming in. Big risk here. It was a long time before I could go in that house again.

-Some people found it useful to shock a room or tent, and to "flash" belongings before any mould toxins could take hold.

Fragrance, Smoke and Funky Smells

Smell removed from funky smelling fabric (towel that had a smell that washing would not remove). 

- BUT: gave some fabrics like wool and cotton a strange smell when doing an intense 24 treatment 

-Ozone can help a lot with fragrance in a car or house as well as smoke smell. Car dealerships use ozone but not super high amounts of for long amounts of time. 

-This is very useful if fragrance and smoke smell are your big concerns. Go low and slow on fragrance, cleaning product residue and smoke until you start to see a difference. 


To remove odours the time needed for treatment is much less than the shock treatment for mould. This will reduce a lot of the risks. Car detailers run ozone for 15 min to 2 hours, typically, or until they can removed the smoke or other problematic odour. 

You have to be sure you are using it safely and understand the limitations -


How to Use Ozone Safely


- Ozone is a very toxic gas. People and pets should not be in the building when an ozone machine is on. Do not even take one whiff of it. Make sure you have a plan to turn it on and off while holding your breath. Ideally turn it off without entering the room (through the electrical panel). It clings to your clothes even if you hold your breath and walk through - this is not safe.

- Ozone needs to be 5-10 x above safe levels for humans to impact bacteria and mould (Pinto).

- The place should be aired out after using ozone to make sure that the gas is not inhaled. Ozone is unstable and will dissipate, but it does not dissipate as fast in a closed space with no air flow. If other VOCs form (see below) then it is necessary to air out the place for a while. The half-life of ozone is 40 min-25 hours. If byproducts have been created then give it a few days at least. Make sure there are tonnes of open windows for the air out.


- One reason government health sites do not recommend the machines is that the shock treatment used to get rid of mould toxins is a very harmful level if inhaled (deadly if you stay in there). Even the low levels recommended as safe by some manufacturers is probably harmful to anyone sensitive to toxins. So there is a huge risk if someone does not know how to use it safely. It is possible they are also wary because of the negative reactions outlined below. In many conventional houses, it might not be possible to avoid all those secondary reactions with materials.


Limitations of Ozone 


- Ozone cannot remove carbon monoxide or formaldehyde (EPA).


- It cannot get into porous materials to remove mould or chemicals (EPA). My experience suggests that it does denature mould that is near the surface of pourous materials. I don't think it goes very deep.


- It will not help with chlorinated hydrocarbons (vinyl, plastics etc) (EHC)


- May not work on clothes and shoes (Pinto). My experience is that there is a bad reaction with any fabric in high amounts. 


Negative Reactions and Byproducts of Ozone - What Can go Wrong


Ozone reacts negatively with some compounds creating more VOCS. Some of the substances it reacts to are:


  • New carpets (EPA)
  • Active tobacco smoke (EPA)
  • Terpenes (to form formaldehyde) (CDH)
  • Styrene (EHC)
  • Floor finish that contains pinine (Pinto)
  • Ceiling tiles (from a client of mine) 
  • Old carpet (from a client of mine)
  • Fabrics (from my experience)
  • Wallpaper (from a client) 

I have found there is a negative byproduct left with almost every porous material if you do this in high enough doses for long enough.

High doses of ozone used to really clear out mould toxins will also degrade or harm certain materials such as:


  • Plants
  • Rubber
  • Coating of electrical wires
  • Fabric
  • Some Artwork
  • (EPA)

My experience is you really need to do many many treatments before you start breaking down most rubbers.  I have done many high dose (shock treatment) ozone treatments and not broken down coatings on electrical wires. 


How to do an Ozone Shock Treatment


For a shock treatment, remove everything fabric or wrap them in plastic, this includes mattresses. 

Remove plants, pets, and artwork that is not behind glass. Tape up electrical outlets. Remove all electronics. Make sure you have everything you need before turning the machine on. 

Hold your breath while turning it on and while turning it off. Air out the place with fresh air for 24 hours. This is based on my experiences. 

Make sure you research if this is safe for you and worth the risk. Understand why the EPA does not recommend it. It is too easy to do something wrong where you could breathe some in. Treat it like the deadly gas that it is. If you are not sure if it will react with your carpet, walls, ceiling then it is a last resort treatment. You can also test a low dose first to see if any weird smells form.  

Make sure it is dosed correctly for the space and if running it for 24 hours it needs an oxygen source. Overdoing it can make your place intolerable. I recently had a bad experience where I overdid it with the ozone, it took a month to be able to go back in.


How to Dose Ozone


I generally use 3500 mg/hr in a single medium sized or large room for a shock treatment. A shock treatment which is what kills and usually denatures the mould is usually 1000 milligrams per hour (mgph) per 100 sq feet (at 70 degrees with relative humidity at or below 20%). The level you are aiming for is 6 to 10 parts per million. Many people shock for 1-3 hours but those of us super sensitive tend to keep going until the substance is denatured. I have gone as high as 5000 and 7000 mg/hr in a very small trailer for 24 - 48 hours. 

The machines I like are the Jenesco Ozone Generator with an output of 100-2100 mg. And the little 5000 mg ones on Amazon that are low cost with a "hold" setting.



Sources:


EPA: http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/ozonegen.html
CDA: http://www.ct.gov/dph/lib/dph/environmental_health/eoha/pdf/ozone_generator_fact_sheet.pdf
EHC: http://www.environmentalhealth.ca/summer96ozone.html
Michael Pinto: 
http://www.moldsensitized.com/ozone-generators-and-interior-mold-remediation-a-recipe-for-disaster/

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Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 5 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.



Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

Non-Toxic Grout and Thin-Set Mortar

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Updated summer 2019

This post contains affiliate links to relevant products that I use and recommend. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

DITRA over the first layer of thin-set

Non-Toxic Thin-Set Mortar


I used Custom Building Products Thin-Set Mortar which is zero-VOC (and mildewcide-free). It had a bit of a smell when wet but seemed fine once dry. You want a water-based thin-set that is not mixed with latex or acrylic additives. The unmodified one is recommended for floors and may not be suitable for all applications. Schulter also makes an unmodified thin-set mortar.

These non-toxic thin-sets are more prone to cracking than ones with more additives, and you have to check if you application requires polymers. 

Avoid the toxic epoxy thin sets. Avoid toxic mastics as well. Although there are some tolerable tile glues like AFM 3 in 1.


Non-Toxic Tile Membranes/Underlayments


Over the first layer of thin-set I used Schluter DITRA (polyethylene with a fleece backing), an uncoupling membrane that will help prevent cracking when my tiny house moves (it worked well and did not have a odour to me). Polyethelene is a very safe plastic.

If you just need a waterproofing membrane use Schluter Kerdi (a modified polyethylene (PEVA) core with non-woven polypropylene).

For a tiled shower, the Kerdi shower system is recommended. Be sure to test all parts including Kerdi Fix sealant if you are sensitive to chemicals (though you can use your own thin-set, as long as it's compatible).

Instead of using the membranes over backer boards, you could use Kerdi boards or Wedi panels. Test for tolerability before proceeding, they are not odour-free. These simplify things by replacing concrete backer boards and membranes with one layer that is does not contain mould food. The panels are non-toxic 0-VOC polystyrene with a membrane already integrated.

Concrete Based Non-Toxic Grout


My completed tiled bathroom!
I used this Custom Building Products grout, the same brand as the thin-set, which is also 0-VOC and contains no mildewcides or antimicrobials. It comes in sanded and unsanded and in different colours. (Unsanded is for marble and certain tiles). It barely had a odour, though it does have polymers which may not be tolerable to some.

If that one is not tolerable, Hydroment is also recommended for people with sensitivities. However, it has a small amount of latex additives and contains mildewcide.

You can make your own with Portland Cement (no additives) mixed with sand, lime and water for a totally chemical-free grout. Here are the ratios from Craftsman's Construction Encyclopedia.

Laticrete also makes a number of 0-VOCgrouts and thin-sets that may work for you. It's a matter of finding out which additives work for you and if additives are required for your application. Before planning out the project (especially shower walls, make sure you know which kind of grout and mortar are required and if you can tolerate them).

What are Grout Additives and are They Toxic?

Those who are sensitive will probably want a concrete-based grout (like those above) and then see which if any additives can be tolerated. Since additives are trade secrets and polymer is a word that can mean a variety of chemicals (there are over 10,000 polymers that can be used in cement) you will probably have to test them. Common polymers in grout include: latex-based, Acrylate copolymers (acrylic eg. PVA), Styrene Butadiene Rubber copolymers (SBR), and Vinyl Acetate-Ethylene copolymers (VAE), and Ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA).

They might come mixed in or you might mix them in yourself. Mixing them in yourself has the advantage of being able to test the additive against your sensitivities in a more concentrated form, on the other hand, you may not want to test the grout until it has cured. Polymers are added to improve chemical resistance, reduce porosity, improve flexibility, and freeze/thaw stability (source).

You will have to find out when and where you need additives, which depends on your project.

Are Thin-Set and Grout Safe?

Sanded grout and thin-sets contains silica (the same substance as glass) which is harmful to breathe in when in dust form; you will see a Prop 65 Warning on every product that contains silica dust. Use a N95 mask (or better) when mixing it until it is fully wet. This is completely safe when it is no longer in dust form. There may be other minerals in there that are a problem in dust form like aluminum oxide, which can result in a high health rating on the SDS and other warnings.

Some cements contain fly ash and others don't. Otherwise, plain Portland Cement does not have any other harmful additives.

Alternative to Concrete-Based Grout


For something more waterproof check put QuartzLock; this won't be tolerable for everyone. It is a urethane based grout, not cement, and provides more waterproofing.

Non-Toxic Tile Types


I used concrete tiles from Morocco in the picture above. For more info on choosing non-toxic tile types see my post on bathrooms.

Non-Toxic Grout Sealers


If just sealing grout (and not tiles) you can use AFM Grout Sealer (0-VOC, one of AFM's most tolerate products), Custom Building Products grout sealer that many people do well with, less than 1 g/l VOCs. ECOS, a well-liked brand has a stone sealer that can be used on grout. If you don't do well with any of those, you can check out more concrete sealers (which can work on grout) in the last section in the post on sealers.

Sodium silicate (aka water glass) is an idea that gets mentioned a lot among the chemically sensitive. When I spoke with a company that makes sodium silicate they recommended against using this on tiles in the shower. This brand Conkrete-Seal, has been used by someone very sensitive, she said it was somewhat waterproof and she was happy with it in the shower. Technically it's a densifier, and not a sealer, and normally it doesn't claim to make concrete waterproof. It is used in concrete polishing systems like Retroplate and as radon sealers in concrete. It is very benign.

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Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 5 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.


For individual help on choosing the best products and materials for you and your home, you can schedule a consultation with me here.


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Heaters for the Chemically Sensitive - Low Offgassing Options 2019

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Types of Heaters 

Generally space heaters with fans are the most difficult here are some other options organised by type. 

This post contains affiliate links to products that I recommend. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission though at no extra cost to you.

Heat Dishes

Optimus dish heater is a type I have used before. Others very sensitive have found that this type of heater has very little to offgas and does not take a long time. It does burn things if it is too close to objects that is a risk. There are a number of brands selling similar dish style heaters on Amazon.

Ceramic Heaters

For the extremely sensitive, universal reactor, the Ceramiciruit portable space heater is the way to go. This is the most tolerated that I have seen, and I have not seen anyone not tolerate it yet. But it is very costly at $988 plus shipping (approx $50 to ship to many parts of the US). If you are not a universal reactor I would try some of the other options from Amazon first.

Quartz Heaters

The next best tolerated type is quartz heaters. Some sensitive folks have recommended the Optimus tower quartz heater. There are other types of quartz heaters, but simpler is better. Optimus also makes a lower profile version that others have liked.

While space heaters with fans are not always the top choice, I have used some successfully with a few days of offgassing. Other sensitive folks have found this Vornado series (VMH10  to VMH600) to be very good.

Convection Heaters

The Patten Utility Heater was tolerated by someone who could not tolerate other convection heaters after some offgassing. It has been reported as noisier than others. There are a number of metal housing utility heaters. Some report only needing a couple or few days to offgas them.

Dyson, heater/fan/HEPA filter is also well tolerated by some.

Radiator Heaters

Oil filled radiator heaters are used by many. The oil is well sealed and should never leak out. I have seen it happen once but that is a major defect and failure. They look inert but they do offgass through the small vents in the front piece. Depending on your level of sensitivity I would say these heaters need to be offgassed for a while. Not having the noise of a fan is a plus for most people. You can find inexpensive versions. If you plan to run this and offgass it for a while, I would get a good quality one so that it will last you a long time.

Other Ways to Keep Warm

Heating blankets (can take a very long time to offgas), biomats (a little more tolerable and supposedly lower EMF) - those two won't work for the most sensitive. But the most tolerated plastic water bottle, Japanese Yutanpo metal water bottles might (buy them here in Canada and here in the US). It's a good idea to have emergency hand and feet warmers (really good to take out with you or for power outtages - I find them totally non-toxic).

Direct Vent Propane Heaters

Can be tolerable for many as the propane is vented.

Mini Split Heat Pump

This unit does not exchange inside and outside air. There is not much offgassing compared to other heating and cooling units.

Carl Grimes suggest it new AC equipment like heat pumps have an offgassing odour than it can be from heavy oil on stamped metal parts. It can be removed with a petroleum solvent, rinsed with hot water plus a non toxic detergent, then water only.

Keeping a mini split heat pump mould-free: 

There is some debate on whether a mini split can be kept clear of mould. I find these units easier to keep mould free than any other type of AC. The unit should come with a fine mesh filter on the front, once you take off the front panel you can access the coils. Keep that filter clean. I never got dust and mould on the coils. If your coils start to get dirt, grime or mould clean them. Make sure your unit is easily accessible. You spray the coils down with water and a cleaning products. Companies can do this part for you.

If you are there for the install, make sure the condensation tube is not too small. It should have a straightforward route out and where it empties should be easily accessible for you. You can pour hydrogen peroxide down the tube you can also blow it out with pressure or suction it out. Don't wait until it's plugged and overflowing to clean it. If that becomes mouldy it may be impossible to perfectly clean so preemptively cleaning it is a good idea.

You could ozone the unit a couple times without damaging it.




Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 5 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.


Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.comDid you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

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Non-Toxic Kitchen Appliances for the Chemically Sensitive

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This post contains affiliate links, upon purchase I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.  If you need assistance in choosing appliances for your sensitivities, please contact me for a one-on-one consultation.  Refrigerators The chemically sensitive person will want to avoid gas and propane appliances. Especially gas stoves, which will be the largest emitter […]

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Non-Toxic Cookware

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This post contains affiliate links, upon purchase I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.  Non-Toxic Cookware Avoid non-stick cookware (Teflon) as it gives off perfluorooctanoic acid, something you do not want to be ingesting.  Instead of a rice cooker which has a non-stick lining, I use the Instant Pot which can be used for […]

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100% Lead Free Faucets

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